1010 flanged axle shaft removal

[stmftr395]

Am finally getting around to going throiugh the final drives on my 1010 project. I have fabricated a puller, some what like the one shown in fig 150-11-13. Using my 1 1/2 ton port-a-power I have moved the shaft little if any. I did tear the threads off of the 1/2 pipe which was screwed into the final drive housing attaching my home made puller. I then made a driver and tried to hammer the shaft out. Not much luck there either. Before you ask, I have removed the 4ea quill attaching screws and don't believe there is any thing stopping the shaft except a tight fit and stubbornness? There is about 3/8" space between the quill and the housing so I must have moved the shaft some, but would appreciate any suggestions which would help complete this task with out damaging any thing. Thanks Mark

[Lavoy]

I didn't get a chance to look up the page you referenced, but if you are talking about a tee bar puller, you go through the two pipe plug holes into 5/8" tapped holes in the bull gear. You can also get some heat on the hub of the bull gear to help expand it somewhat.
Lavoy

[wwattson]

I think you're on the right path. The bull gear to axle connection is a tapered spline so it sticks pretty good until it finally releases (at least it did in my case). Lavoy's advice on heat is good. The other thing that worked for me was to get the whole deal under tension and then using a large piece of brass round stock and my 3 pound hammer, give the end one sound wack. That popped it in my case. The shock of the hammer blow was enough to break the bind of the taper and the brass helps keep the end of the axle from getting banged up.

[stmftr395]

Thanks for the assistance. I did not use bolts into the bull gear, but fastened my puller to the housing. Will fabricate some attachments from 5/8 threaded rod this evening and try again. Hopefully no damage from the previous attempts. Thanks to all for your help.