Both steering clutches went at same time

[22savahe]

Hello

I recently bought a 350b crawler loader. Used it a few days ago and all was fine. Today went to use it and had to go from neutral to forward twice on the reverser before it would move. That's the first time I experienced this. Then as soon as I started crossing some soft ground I lost power to both tracks at the same time. Now the machine will only move a few inches in either forward or reverse. I would say both clutches are shot, but is it uncommon for both to go out at the same time with no warning?


Regards.

[LeonardL]

You need to check the fluid level in your reverser first. Not likely for both steering clutches to just quit at the same time.

[22savahe]

You need to check the fluid level in your reverser first. Not likely for both steering clutches to just quit at the same time.

That was my first thought as well. The machine was on a small incline when this happened, when I checked it was low. I added some but was afraid to add to much as the machine wasn't level. Didn't improve the situation. Did I do permanent damage?

[LeonardL]

Well it's hard to say about permanent damage. Your reverser needs a bare minimum of two gallons of fluid to operate properly. I would have to go look up what the capacity is but I know it needs at least a couple of gallons to operate.

You may also have filter issues. If your filter is stopped up then it will cause your issue as well. Try to get it on level ground and drain the fluid that's in it and then pull the filter. Change it and the fluid and see what you have after that.

[Stan Disbrow]

Hi,

I have only ever lost one dry steering clutch at a time. So, I am also thinking the issue lies with the reverser. And the suggestion to drain it and reolace that filter is also the first thing I would do. In the event that didn't work, I would be eyeballing reverser pressures and go from there.

There are shaft couplers involved and one of those may have stripped out, but the most likely cause is oil issues inside the reverser. Plus, going there first means not having to disassemble things.

Stan

[22savahe]

Thanks for the advice guys. I will look to see if there's any how to videos on YouTube showing how to replace the filter. Thanks again!

[Jason37756]

As others have mentioned it unlikely that both clutches went bad at the same time. Reverser valve pressure and oil/oil filter is where I would start.

It would be best if you could park it on a hill with the left side facing down hill…the steeper the better. This will keep some fluid in the chamber if you just pull the cap, but you could also just drain the fluid as was already mentioned.

Every dozer I’ve owned was in desperate need of a reverser filter when I bought it. They’re not hard to replace. It’ll be 9/16 or 5/8. A ratchet wrench and/or socket work well. Get you a filter and some gasket maker designed for oil such as Ultra Black by Permatex. Also some J20 from Tractor Supply. I’m thinking 13 quarts, but you’ll want to check first.

Look under the dozer thru the tracks on the right side and you’ll see a round looking piece with four bolts. That’s where your filter is and they’ll be a drain plug underneath it with a hole thru the belly pan. It’s a bit of a stretch to remove the cap and the lip on the belly pan may be aggravating. That why they usually don’t get changed.

If you have a scope this is a good opportunity to look up inside the reverser and inspect for anything that looks broken while the cap is off and the fluid is empty.

[Stan Disbrow]

Hi,

Any time I have been around a machine with powershift style hydraulic clutch packs, the first thing I do is drop the oil and replace the filter(s) and change or clean up strainer screen. That also lets me take a hard look at the screen and filter elements for bits that ought not to be there.

It doesn't take much restriction to cause things to not want to work properly. Or, not work at all.

This spring I picked up a 74 JD 4230 wheel tractor with a Powershift transmission. Now I have four clutch packs and four brake packs and two filters and a pick up screen. It was in need of an in-frame engine rebuild, but the first thing I did was drop that trans oil and pull those filters and screen. The engine ran well enough as it was. worn and smoky, but it ran. 13k hours.

I had to know the state of the transmission to see if I needed to split the machine. I would have redone the trans before the engine if it needed it. Fortunately, things looked great, and the pressures were right where then needed to be after the new screen, filters and oil. No nasties anywhere. I didn't bother with the pressure gauges part until I knew about the state of the oil flow.

Then I addressed the engine. Now it runs better than new and I have a terrific haying tractor. Total cost of $21k and that is dirt cheap these days for 112 dyno'd PTO HP. I had been wanting a late 4020 with the side console and a Powershift, but they were all more money than I spent total on the 4230. And the 4230 is not any different than the 4020 in the driveline and the rest of the machine is a bit more 'finished' than the 4020. I like that I have a 4-post ROPS v a 2-post one, too (I didn't want a full cab).

Stan

Stan