Front Idler Wheel - Clearance at guides

[reedgmi]

Working through some issues on my new-to-me 1010C, and excessive clearance at the front idler wheel guides is one of them. The guide rails are worn, as is the yoke & guide blocks. My question are:

1. What is the target clearance/gap vertically? I'm planning to weld in a new(thicker) piece of guide rail, remove all shims at the guide block, and perhaps mill down the guide block around the bolt mounting surface so it sits higher. What is my target? Something like 1/8"?

2. There is also a lot of side-to-side clearance. As you can see in the one pic, the ends of the undercarriage guide rails taper in - I assume bent. Not much, maybe 1/4". But in total, I have approx 1/2" of side to side gap (The gap marked 'H', 1/4" per side). What is normal?

I don't want to throw a lot of money at this with new parts, trying to do it with welding/machining/etc. Along with the shot idler wheel bushing, there was so much movement that the hydraulic adjuster was jacked (another post later) - everything was sitting at an odd angle.

[Lavoy]

Frame ends should be parallel, that will tighten up you side to side. As for thickness, just measure at an unworn spot, 1/8" vertical play will be fine.
I have new front idler shafts on hand, can't remember if I told you that or not.
Lavoy

[reedgmi]

I was thinking I need to get the frame rail ends parallel somehow (hydraulic jack between?). Then, I'll probably get some bar stock with a thickness a little less than my yoke/guide gap and weld that in place of the worn section of the frame rail.

My overall plan is to get the whole right side torn down and then make a big shopping list. Definitely have some roller issues, and an undercarriage/frame squareness issue. Separate post coming up later about that. Maybe left side at same time, not sure yet. I'll hit you up with that list when it's ready Lavoy.

I've got one more week at home, then heading off to SE Asia for 6 weeks - so gonna stall out for a while.