General help and support for your Lindeman through 2010 John Deere crawler
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reedgmi
- 430 crawler

- Posts: 56
- Joined: Tue Dec 31, 2024 1:22 pm
- Location: SE Michigan
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by reedgmi » Mon Mar 10, 2025 7:28 am
Now that the weather has started to warm up, I've been working on cleaning off a few decades of oily grime & dirt from my new-to-me 1010C before doing a full round of oil changes and some other small things. Unfortunately ...... I discovered this small gap between the clutch housing & the trans housing. A bit less than 1/8". Maybe it has been like this for 20 years, I don't know .... but hard to ignore it now.
I understand there are 4 large nuts securing the clutch housing to studs in the trans housing? Which are likely loose.....
Is my worst fear right, that the only way to access those is by removing the final drive? Or, any slim chance of hope that they can be tightened from above, from the top access plate?

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1963 (?) Deere 1010 Crawler-Dozer
1955 Ford 850
1973 MF40 Ind
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Lavoy
- Site Admin

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by Lavoy » Mon Mar 10, 2025 9:53 am
Final drive needs to be removed, don't use the crawler til you fix that, big dollars if you don't.
Lavoy
Parts and restoration for antique and late model John Deere crawlers.
Owner and moderator
www.jdcrawlers.com
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reedgmi
- 430 crawler

- Posts: 56
- Joined: Tue Dec 31, 2024 1:22 pm
- Location: SE Michigan
Post
by reedgmi » Mon Mar 10, 2025 4:04 pm
Upon closer inspection ..... tightening up some nuts is the least of my concerns. The clutch housing is cracked.
Probably because the 3 bolts to the frame rail are completely missing.
So .... housing must be replaced. Are these relatively easy to find? At this point, I'm thinking it's still worthwhile getting this baby running again. I hope.

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1963 (?) Deere 1010 Crawler-Dozer
1955 Ford 850
1973 MF40 Ind
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Lavoy
- Site Admin

- Posts: 11108
- Joined: Sun Apr 03, 2005 8:32 pm
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by Lavoy » Thu Mar 13, 2025 8:55 am
They are around, I might have one, either way, you can't run it the way it is other than risking catastrophic failure.
Lavoy
Parts and restoration for antique and late model John Deere crawlers.
Owner and moderator
www.jdcrawlers.com
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reedgmi
- 430 crawler

- Posts: 56
- Joined: Tue Dec 31, 2024 1:22 pm
- Location: SE Michigan
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by reedgmi » Thu Mar 13, 2025 9:09 am
Agreed, just gotta get into it, see what I find. Once I get the track off ....
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1963 (?) Deere 1010 Crawler-Dozer
1955 Ford 850
1973 MF40 Ind
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Kolot
- 420 crawler

- Posts: 38
- Joined: Fri Mar 21, 2025 12:22 pm
- Location: Stafford CT
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by Kolot » Tue Mar 25, 2025 6:12 pm
Can those cracks be welded and repaired?
67 JD 350
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reedgmi
- 430 crawler

- Posts: 56
- Joined: Tue Dec 31, 2024 1:22 pm
- Location: SE Michigan
Post
by reedgmi » Tue Mar 25, 2025 6:16 pm
Kolot wrote: ↑Tue Mar 25, 2025 6:12 pm
Can those cracks be welded and repaired?
I have been wondering the same. Need to get it disassembled first and see the full extent of the damage.
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1963 (?) Deere 1010 Crawler-Dozer
1955 Ford 850
1973 MF40 Ind
------------------------------------------
-
Lavoy
- Site Admin

- Posts: 11108
- Joined: Sun Apr 03, 2005 8:32 pm
- Location: North Dakota
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by Lavoy » Wed Mar 26, 2025 8:45 am
The housings are cast iron, so they don't weld easily, and unless you are skilled at cast welding, usually expensive.
Lavoy
Parts and restoration for antique and late model John Deere crawlers.
Owner and moderator
www.jdcrawlers.com
-
reedgmi
- 430 crawler

- Posts: 56
- Joined: Tue Dec 31, 2024 1:22 pm
- Location: SE Michigan
Post
by reedgmi » Wed Mar 26, 2025 8:55 am
Lavoy wrote: ↑Wed Mar 26, 2025 8:45 am
The housings are cast iron, so they don't weld easily, and unless you are skilled at cast welding, usually expensive.
Lavoy
Yeah, I would not attempt it myself, but I know it can be done with correct preheating / cool down procedure & good filler rod choice. Since I'm close to Detroit, there are options close by to work with. Would boil down to cost of repair vs. cost of used part+shipping.
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1963 (?) Deere 1010 Crawler-Dozer
1955 Ford 850
1973 MF40 Ind
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