Deere 820-2010 Loader Backhoe final drive removal. Lots - O -Rust!

[iowahill1]

I picked up this 1963 John Deere 2010 loader backhoe which has the final drive locked up solid. Right side steering clutch and brake drum are heavily rusted, and both steering clutch throw-out bearings will not release or move. The drive pinion is free but the ring gear will not move. Looks like at least I have to pull the right side final drive to get at the clutch and brake components, and may have to pull the left side too.

Problem is that I can't find the master link for the tracks, and really don't know what it would look like. I have compressed the track adjuster fully to get maximum slack in the track chain and was thinking/hoping I might be able to pull the sprocket without splitting the track IF I can get it up and clear from the rock guard. Anybody out there with suggestions?

Also, is this tractor similar parts-wise to other models? I'm probably be looking for steering and clutch parts.

Many thanks, -Tom

[Lavoy]

If you haven't already, get a factory parts and service manual prior to starting the project, that will cover most or all of the process.
2010 is an orphan so to speak, it shares no clutch parts with any other model. I have clutch parts available once you get it apart.
Lavoy

[iowahill1]

I have all three manuals and have studied the disassembly procedures. Problem is removing the track when It won't move. I need clarification of where the master link is (no clip visible). Are all pins the same? Is removing the front idler an option to take the track off intact? -Tom

[fundytides]

If you don't see a clip, it may have a "drive-in" pin. I used one of these on my 40c. Take a good look and you might see a small indent in one end of the pin which will identify it as the master.

[Tiffany]

we have this Machine and backhoe for sale it is 820-2010 1964 John Deere Crawler Loader
if any one is interested lat us know thanks

[iowahill1]

If you don't see a clip, it may have a "drive-in" pin. I used one of these on my 40c. Take a good look and you might see a small indent in one end of the pin which will identify it as the master.

That is the kind of information I needed. But remember, I can't move the sprocket on either side. if that pin is under or in a position where I can't get access to it, it doesn't do me any good. Still would like to see if I can pull the track(s) without having to split them though. I'm leaning toward loosening or removing the front idler. Many thanks -Tom

[Lavoy]

Even if it is on the bottom let's say, it will still be easier to split the track and pull it out then to take the whole track off as an assembly.
Lavoy

[fundytides]

I checked the master pin on my 40c today and it actually has a small "divot" in each end so if that is what you have, you should be able to spot it from either side.

[iowahill1]

were those master pins interference fit all the way through the bore, or only about 1/3 to 1/2? And what did you use for a press or C clamp? -Tom

[fundytides]

It seemed to me that it was interference fit all the way but it was a few years ago that I put that track on. Lavoy could probably tell you. As I remember, I just drove it in with a mall. Got to take it out again soon as I have to work on the steering clutches. We will see how that goes.

[iowahill1]

I watched a YouTube video of a guy pulling the final drive on a 340B. He removed his Master pin using a bridge clamp. When i zoomed in on a still frame I could see that it was a Proto, and with his monologue describing the progress he mentions using a short piece of pipe at the receiving end of the pin in order to give it somewhere to go. After checking my pin length I decided that I'm going to need a Proto #10 (10" gap and rated for ~33k lbs) or equivalent bridge clamp in order to pull the pin all the way. His pin was interference fit only about 1/3 of the way, so that's why I asked.

The tractor is sitting outside my shop on asphalt and on a grade. So to pull the track I Need to jack one side at a time and block it up close to level in order to try to find the master pin. I also need to run a cup brush on a grinder to remove factory paint off the pin ends to look for some kind of symbol. My next-door neighbor is a major heavy equipment hauler so I secured some short 6 x 12 wood blocks to crib the machine up and clear of the ground.

And since I'm not only old but also lean toward lazy I picked up an air-operated 20-ton bottle jack from Harbor Freight yesterday to do the hard work. I also bought a Proto 10-HDL Extra Heavy Duty bridge clamp off eBay that should arrive in a week or so and appears to be the same as the YouTube guy was using, aided with an 8-pounder and gas axe. That much I can probably handle. Now where did I put that cold beer...

[fundytides]

Does anyone know if these "drive-in" pins can go either way. I started getting ready to take my 40c apart today and can't remember which way I drove the pin in, probably from the outside as that would be easiest. Can I just drive it on through or do I have to drive it back out the way it went in?

[Lavoy]

40's are not a drive master, they are a headed master with a snap ring, can go only one way.
Lavoy

[fundytides]

Thanks Lavoy, but when I replaced the track with a better used one, the guy supplied a drive-in pin which I used.

[Lavoy]

Then you don't have 40 chains, must be 420. There was never a drive master for a 40. Measure the diameter, guessing it will be 1".
Lavoy