Track idler assembly rusted to rail.

[JDMainer]

I am the owner of a 450 crawler loader backhoe. I removed backhoe and installed counterweight. I used for some land clearing. Has had a non-adjustable left side track. It became loose enough to come off twice in one day. I decided I had to remedy the situation. Upon close inspection (after numerous attempts to move the idler forward)I discovered the idler assembly is rusted to the rail. Any advice as to how to free the assembly up would be greatly appreciated.

[Tigerhaze]

When you say idler assembly do you mean the adjuster to the spring assembly or the idler bracket that slides on the trackframe? My answer differs based on which one it is.

[JDMainer]

Idler bracket that is supposed to slide on track frame . It acts more like it has been welded to frame .

[LeonardL]

When you try to pump grease into the adjuster, do you see the ram trying to move out at all? I have to say in my 40 plus years I have never seen an idler assembly rust to the rail. It has either been welded or the adjuster itself is the issue.

[JDMainer]

I think it all goes back to the history of this particular machine. I purchased it in western New Hampshire. I had it shipped to eastern Maine. The previous owner told me that the left side track adjuster was bad. The track had some slack . but it was usable. I removed some rocks and stumps with the backhoe. I decided to clear some land by pushing trees over. That is when the "fun" started. The left side track slipped over the idler. I got it back on. Moved a few yards and it came off again. Got it back on and carefully got it back to the dooryard where I could work on it.
I spent a long time trying to get the master pin out of the track. Couldn't do it . I ended up pulling the track off the idler. I unbolted the idler assembly from the adjuster. Took a strap and put it around assembly and hooked to bucket teeth. Tried moving assembly with bucket hydraulics. Broke strap. Removed side plates from idler carriage. That is when I discovered the problem. Rust. I soaked it all down with Aero Kroil. Now what?

[Al Swearengen]

Heat works wonders.

[Tigerhaze]

Heat works wonders.

That was one of my thoughts- the other being that if you could drive that side into a shallow pool of water and let it sit it would probably loosen it up as well.

[Lavoy]

Power washer or steam cleaner with zero degree nozzle and keep at it.
Lavoy

[JDMainer]

Thanks for all the tips. I went looking for my pressure washer. That sounds like a pretty safe way to drive the rust out. Found the washer , but missing an important connector to the pressure hose. Well, I will borrow one and get at it tomorrow or the next day.

[pop pop]

that makes me wonder if someone previously may have put a shim in and clamped the bolts down to hold it in place instad of relying on the tensioner....loosen those bolts on that assembly it should wiggle loose along with doing all the other stuff mentioned.

[JDMainer]

Success . I used my 4 1/2" grinder with 1/16" cut wheel to cut a slot in wear strip on top of track rail. It didn't go deep enough. I bought a 7" grinder to finish the job. Rigged a steel strap around idler carriage and hooked to bucket tooth. Applied tension. After some use of porta power and some strategic hits with a sledge hammer the idler wheel assembly was on the ground.
I cleaned up top of track rail. Applied a generous amount of anti-seize and put assembly back on rail. Slides nicely now. I realize I haven't put wear strips back yet. I want to get track adjuster working first. I pump grease into button nose and it comes out bleeder hole. Bleeder bolt is wrenched down tight. What is wrong?

[Stan Disbrow]

Hi,

Missing the single ball bearing used as the check valve, probably. They come out if one removes the plug and get lost.

Normally, only loosening the plug is necessary to let grease out of the hole to loosen track tension. Often times, though, the plug is removed and the ball is lightly stuck on the end by some grease. Once out, it falls off.

Stan