left track won't stay engaged under load

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Paul70
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left track won't stay engaged under load

Post by Paul70 » Fri Sep 14, 2012 9:13 am

i am currently working on a JD 450b. it came to me with a few different issues, i have installed a new trans pump and input shaft because the pump was leaking and had raan dry on several occasions resulting in the pump gears cutting into the pump housing and the bearing that the input shaft rides on inside of the pump had spun cut a groove into the input shaft. i have also replaced the left steering clutch pack, including the brake drum assembly due to the inner splines, for the shaft going to the final drive assembly, had broke. the splines on the inner and outer shaft were all in good shape. i also replaced the brake bands on both sides, the right side linings had come off and the left was just old and wore down, since i had it apart i replaced it. i also adjusted the pressure plate so the the fingers measured 1" from the top of the inner lip of the brake drum to the top of the fingers, i didn't have access to the tool to set them by but i had found that 1" measurment from another post who had adjusted his using the tool then measured the distance. now that it is together i have adjusted the brake bands and the throw out bearing and when the left track is not under a heavy load it seems to work fine, but when i am on a hill or against a tree only the right track turns. i have tried backing off the brake band and adjusted the throw out bearing all the way off so it is not against the fingers and it still does not want to stay engaged.

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Lavoy
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Post by Lavoy » Fri Sep 14, 2012 10:44 am

I would guess weak pressure plate springs, assuming that there is no oil on the clutch discs.
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Paul70
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Post by Paul70 » Fri Sep 14, 2012 12:18 pm

the disks are all new and free of oil on them, i even made sure that i put the first disc under the snap ring on the center drum then alternated steels and frictions

since the springs could be weak do i need to pull the steering clutch assembly back out to change them or can i do it in the dozer? would it be better to just get a new pressure plate?

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Post by Lavoy » Fri Sep 14, 2012 1:49 pm

I would say the pressure plate is weak, unless you replaced it already.
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Paul70
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Joined: Thu Sep 13, 2012 5:13 pm
Location: Indiana

Post by Paul70 » Mon Oct 22, 2012 7:57 am

i have pulled the steering clutch assembly back out and have a new pressure plate, while i have it out i am checking all the disks to make sure they are clean and also checking part numbers to make sure all the parts are correct. i have found that the part number cast onto the center hub is for a straight 450, i have checked all the other part numbers that i have replaced and found that somebody took a complete steering clutch assembly out of a straight 450 and put it into this 450b, i had to replace the outer brake drum due to the inner splines, for the shaft that turns the final drive, were broke. the shaft itself is fine, the inner shaft also is fine, as far as i can tell the splines in the center ring and pinion are fine. now i have a new drum, steels, frictions, pressure plate and hub. the hub that i have now has casting numbers that match the hub i took out but it also has casting numbers indicating that it is for a 450b also. since the hub has the same casting numbers does that mean it is for 450 as well as a 450b? if so then how many steels and frictions do i need to use? i have tried stacking them in the drum with one friction under the clip on the hub and the rest alternating but the last friction does not spline onto the hub. everything i am finding indicates i need 8 steel disks and 9 friction disks. is the supposed to be a spacer between the drum and hub to raise the hub up higher to allow all the friction disks to spline onto it? if so then will the bottom friction disk still be splined onto it?

Paul70
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Post by Paul70 » Mon Oct 22, 2012 12:07 pm

i have compared the two hubs that i have for the steering clutch and found that the hub that has both casting numbers on it is slightly taller than the hub with only the casting number indicating it is for the 450. i have bolted the new pressure plate onto it and adjusted the fingers, they measure 1" above the center of the hub. i had read on here somewhere i believe that it measures 1" after they used the actual tool that J.D. says you have to use to set them with. is this correct?

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