Steering Clutch
Steering Clutch
Repaired left clutch/brake on a 350B and can not adjust out free travel @ steering lever. Stack height for 8 new fibers @ .180 + 7 new steeles @ .093 = 2.09; I used 4 used fibers @ .164 + 4 used fibers @.176 + 8 used steeles @ .090 for a stack height of 2.08 ( steele #8 against pressure plate face eliminates wear on face). Clutch pressure was set with JD-7 gauge @ 3/4". Is 3/4" correct? End of clutch control rod fell off @ 4 1/2" free travel. currently has 2 thread engaged @ 4 1/2" free travel. Looked @ right steer lever & it is @ 4 1/2" free also but 80-85% of clutch rod showing. Do I pull clutch back off & reset clutch pressure @ 7/8 or maybe 1"(is the JD-7 gauge incorrect?) in order to get 1 1/2" free travel? Can't leave control rod with only 2 thread engaged.
Steer Clutch
Negative on the power boosted steering clutch.
Okay... That eliminates the possibility of the steering assist cylinders being out of adjustment. Before you go to the trouble of taking the final back off, you need to make certain of some things. Your issue may well be on top where you can fix it without pulling the final.
First things first... Are you making your adjustments with the floor board in place? If not then you need to install the floor board so that you are making the adjustments with the steering lever rests being in place.
Make sure the steering lever linkage rod and pivot pins are not worn and causing excess play.
Also, the shaft that goes through the clutch housing. This is the shaft that your steering lever linkage rod, (on the outside of the clutch housing) and your clutch adjustment rod fastens to (on the inside of the clutch housing). Make sure that it isn't worn and loose in the housing. There is a bushing that this shaft rides in that can get worn out and cause enough play to use a lot of your adjustment. Also check the arm or lever that is fastened to this shaft, ( lever on the inside of the clutch housing) as it is keyed with a Woodruff Key and needs to be tight and not moving or pivoting on the shaft. I've seen these keys shear off or wear the slot in the shaft and cause your issue. It throws the lever out of position thus causing way to much adjustment travel.
Another couple of points is the vertical shaft that the throwout bearing fork is mounted to and the pivot lever on the top of this shaft. This is the lever your adjustment rod fastens to. Make sure they are positioned properly on this shaft and are tight on the shaft. Unfortunately the throwout bearing fork is too deep to tighten from the top but you should be able to see if it is loose on the shaft. Both of these are centered to the shaft using a centering screw with a lock nut to hold them in place. I've seen these screws get loose and cause your issue. This shaft also has to fit properly in the housing. It has bushings that it rides in as well. Make sure they aren't worn and causing the shaft to be out of proper position.
You may very well end up taking your final back off to address your issue. But hopefully you will find something in what I have described to help you.
I really don't think you are having any issue with the amount of or the thickness of your clutch plates. Both fiber and steels. The gauge is correct... I have accused it of being wrong only to find that it was always some other issue that ended up being the problem.
I hope this helps!! Let us know what you find!! That's how we all learn on here! Good luck!
First things first... Are you making your adjustments with the floor board in place? If not then you need to install the floor board so that you are making the adjustments with the steering lever rests being in place.
Make sure the steering lever linkage rod and pivot pins are not worn and causing excess play.
Also, the shaft that goes through the clutch housing. This is the shaft that your steering lever linkage rod, (on the outside of the clutch housing) and your clutch adjustment rod fastens to (on the inside of the clutch housing). Make sure that it isn't worn and loose in the housing. There is a bushing that this shaft rides in that can get worn out and cause enough play to use a lot of your adjustment. Also check the arm or lever that is fastened to this shaft, ( lever on the inside of the clutch housing) as it is keyed with a Woodruff Key and needs to be tight and not moving or pivoting on the shaft. I've seen these keys shear off or wear the slot in the shaft and cause your issue. It throws the lever out of position thus causing way to much adjustment travel.
Another couple of points is the vertical shaft that the throwout bearing fork is mounted to and the pivot lever on the top of this shaft. This is the lever your adjustment rod fastens to. Make sure they are positioned properly on this shaft and are tight on the shaft. Unfortunately the throwout bearing fork is too deep to tighten from the top but you should be able to see if it is loose on the shaft. Both of these are centered to the shaft using a centering screw with a lock nut to hold them in place. I've seen these screws get loose and cause your issue. This shaft also has to fit properly in the housing. It has bushings that it rides in as well. Make sure they aren't worn and causing the shaft to be out of proper position.
You may very well end up taking your final back off to address your issue. But hopefully you will find something in what I have described to help you.
I really don't think you are having any issue with the amount of or the thickness of your clutch plates. Both fiber and steels. The gauge is correct... I have accused it of being wrong only to find that it was always some other issue that ended up being the problem.
I hope this helps!! Let us know what you find!! That's how we all learn on here! Good luck!
40 plus years working on JD 350s, 400Gs, 450s and other equipment both Ag and Construction.
Steering Clutch
Searched for and found a floor plate, set it in position and free travel moved from 4 1/2" to 3 " but that is with only 2 1/2 threads engaged on the control rod. Still making progress. All pins rods, links, cams, connectors, horiz & vert shafts, bushings, fork are right and tight. Nothing appears bent or deformed. What does 1/8" or 1/4" at the fingers equate to at the steer lever? If that would make 1" I would use part of it for thread engagement and the rest at free travel and live with extra free travel. As long as brake application dosen't two block steer lever against front of seat.
Steer Clutch
I have been using John Deere Service Bulletin No. 286 page 72; Manual TM-1032 sec 60 page 20-6 (Aug-73); sec 60 page 20-7 (Jun-80); sec 60 page 25-4 (Nov-70); sec 60 page 25-6 (Feb-74); are these still good?
I think this is the right publication but it has been several years and I don't have an old Tech Manual laying around for a 350B. I just wanted to make sure you weren't trying to run adjustments from a 350C book. No offense!
Here is what I do for the steering clutch free travel.
First I remove the adjuster from the ball on the pivot arm. (Vertical Shaft End) inside the clutch housing. Then pull the steering lever back enough to put a spacer between the rest on the floor board and the rest on the steering lever. Here is what I use...
I take a 3/8" bolt or a piece of 3/8" round stock as my spacer and place it on top of the steering lever rest located on the floor board and then lower the steering lever down on top of the bolt or round stock. So the end result is the steering lever is now sitting on top of the 3/8" bolt or round stock and is now 3/8" off of the full rest position. Make sense?
Then I take a small pry bar and pry the lever on the vertical shaft pivot arm so that it is making the throw out bearing slide out to the pressure plate fingers. You want the throw out bearing to just touch the fingers, no more.
Then while holding the the throw out bearing in this position, I adjust the adjuster until the socket will just slide over the ball on the pivot arm. Then lock the lock nut into place.
After doing this, I leave the steering lever still sitting on the bolt or round stock and proceed with the brake adjustment.
I back the 5/16" bolt that is in the brake actuator arm out all the way until it is flush with the bottom of the actuator arm.
Then tighten the main brake adjuster bolt in or clockwise and is snug and is on top of the detent flange on the brake adjuster bolt. This is the shoulders of the adjuster bolt flange.
Then turn the 5/16" bolt in on the brake actuator arm until it just touches the anvil portion of the brake actuator.
After it touches, put a mark on one side of the head of the bolt. Then back the bolt back out two (2) full turns, counting using the mark and lock the lock nut in place.
Then turn the main brake adjuster bolt back out 1/4 turn or counter clockwise until you see or feel the bolt go into the detent on the bolt flange.
Then remove the 3/8" bolt or round stock from the steering lever rests and you should be properly adjusted. That is of course that all the linkage is working freely and is in the proper working positions.
I hope I didn't leave anything out. I re-read this at least ten times to make sure I didn't.
So I hope this gets you going!! Good luck and keep us posted!!
Here is what I do for the steering clutch free travel.
First I remove the adjuster from the ball on the pivot arm. (Vertical Shaft End) inside the clutch housing. Then pull the steering lever back enough to put a spacer between the rest on the floor board and the rest on the steering lever. Here is what I use...
I take a 3/8" bolt or a piece of 3/8" round stock as my spacer and place it on top of the steering lever rest located on the floor board and then lower the steering lever down on top of the bolt or round stock. So the end result is the steering lever is now sitting on top of the 3/8" bolt or round stock and is now 3/8" off of the full rest position. Make sense?
Then I take a small pry bar and pry the lever on the vertical shaft pivot arm so that it is making the throw out bearing slide out to the pressure plate fingers. You want the throw out bearing to just touch the fingers, no more.
Then while holding the the throw out bearing in this position, I adjust the adjuster until the socket will just slide over the ball on the pivot arm. Then lock the lock nut into place.
After doing this, I leave the steering lever still sitting on the bolt or round stock and proceed with the brake adjustment.
I back the 5/16" bolt that is in the brake actuator arm out all the way until it is flush with the bottom of the actuator arm.
Then tighten the main brake adjuster bolt in or clockwise and is snug and is on top of the detent flange on the brake adjuster bolt. This is the shoulders of the adjuster bolt flange.
Then turn the 5/16" bolt in on the brake actuator arm until it just touches the anvil portion of the brake actuator.
After it touches, put a mark on one side of the head of the bolt. Then back the bolt back out two (2) full turns, counting using the mark and lock the lock nut in place.
Then turn the main brake adjuster bolt back out 1/4 turn or counter clockwise until you see or feel the bolt go into the detent on the bolt flange.
Then remove the 3/8" bolt or round stock from the steering lever rests and you should be properly adjusted. That is of course that all the linkage is working freely and is in the proper working positions.
I hope I didn't leave anything out. I re-read this at least ten times to make sure I didn't.
So I hope this gets you going!! Good luck and keep us posted!! 40 plus years working on JD 350s, 400Gs, 450s and other equipment both Ag and Construction.
STEER CLUTCH
Originaly I missed the "using floor plate stops"(didn't have any) and used the stops on the lever and on the trans casting. using the correct stops used up 1 1/2" of travel. I will check some things and get back later.
Steer Clutch
I pulled clutch back off, checked everything, reinstalled, still have 3" free travel with only 2 1/2 thread remaining engaged on control rod, 1st down and punt.
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