450C

[BOBWOOD]

First of all I'd like to say hello to everyone on the board...I've read over many of the posts here and want to thank the many contributors for all the valuable information you have shared. I recently purchased a 1978 JD450C crawler loader/backhoe (9300) ser,#450CA-301252T 4400hrs for $11000. On the positive side most of the undercarriage is in pretty good shape...It seems as though someone replaced the main most expensive components already...sprockets/chains/pads. I have new rollers which I plan to install in the spring....Also I will need to look at the shims/wear strips on the front idlers along with a few broken off bolts on the yokes and the tensioners will at least require new seals. Overall the machine does not look like it was abused too badly...no cracks, welds, or missing bolts on the frame or housings except two broken heads on the right front crossmember frame connection bracket. Unfortunately the drawbar assembly is missing as the two 3/4" bolts are broken off. The backhoe seems fairly tight considering it's age and only has a couple of minor cosmetic welds. My biggest issue is that obsolete boom swing unit but it works fine now. In reading the many posts here the problem with cavitation concerns me, however, I checked the crankcase for antifreeze and could not detect any visually. I plan to install a baldwin SCA filter ASAP. Other than that I need to find or build some engine side shields and replace the turbo adaptor piece as it is wearing through and also a new tachometer. I welcome any advice you guys can give me on these things...and where to find parts...I'm not too sure about working on the turbo...is there a seal/bearing kit I should be replacing when I have it apart? I guess I should add here I'm not a mechanic myself ...I'm the woodworker in the family...but my father spent over 35years fixing Cats and my brother is a Detroit mechanic...so once I get the parts together I will have experienced help in doing the work. Now I did find a few misc. parts in the transmission when I changed the oil...perhaps some of you will be able to identify them from the photo...I will have to ascertain everything is good in there before I go running it anymore. As a whole the machine starts, runs and operates very well...no strange noises or oil leaks that I can tell. I plan to use it to prepare building sites, build a driveway, install a bridge/culverts and to skid trees and lift logs around an old sawmill that I have. Also I plan to use it to do some log building construction....I'd like to get a lumber fork attachment for it and I'll probably construct a jib boom for it or maybe just attach a knuckleboom to the back. I'm trying to start off with one single versatile machine until I can afford one of everything (skidder, boom truck etc. etc.) http://www.flickr.com/photos/serutcip_s ... 419514569/

[BOBWOOD]

Thanks Ken
Yes the crawler did come with a technical manual...althought it looked brand new...which was somewhat disconcerting. There are several pins in that housing but I can't really tell which one it is from the photos. If I had to guess I'd say it is the pin that holds the R-L clutch shaft to the rear input shaft...the splines would still be holding so everything works but perhaps the sliding collar that holds it in place moved out of position...or it was just left in there after being replaced during an overhaul. (I think it is the same part as R43244 needle roller sub for T36816). My second choice might be #R32690 that goes in the end of the Reverse/Low clutch drum but I cannot see any photos of it nor is it mentioned in the sevice instructions. The other pins are 11M7087 in the ring gear pinion shaft or R34567 which is supposedly brass...I don't think either of those is applicable. Anyway, I'm sure someone will come along who is intimately acquainted with it....thanks again!

[Tigerhaze]

I'll just add my $0.02 on the rotary swing cylinder for your backhoe attachment. It is true that the rotary unit is obsolete and I don't believe it is very easy to find parts for it. However if it works well now it should last you for a while as long as it is occasional use. My experience with the worn rotary swing cylinder on my Model 50 is that it is harder to be precise with the swing and I have to do a couple smaller swings back and forth to position it.

A couple people on here did mention that Deere used to offer a conversion kit from the rotary swing cylinder to a more conventional dual-cylinder swing assembly but that it has been long obselete as well. If anyone has any new information on that, I would appreciate hearing it.

[Tigerhaze]

I guess my point was that he shouldn't worry about the swing cylinder, because even when worn (like mine) they are still useable as long as you aren't worried about rapid production.

That's great that they still sell the seal kits for the 93A/9300- I haven't looked for my older Model 50 but I was told previously that they were no longer available.

I'm still interested in learning about the conversion kit, even if they are no longer available. Literature is always useful in case the rotary swing goes out in the future and one of us decided to cobble up a conversion, not unlike what others have been talking about for 3 point hitches.

[BOBWOOD]

I recently inquired about the old style swing cylinder at the dealer and he said that the local hydraulic shop could fix it regardless...but that the kit was available...for about $250 in Canada...My brother actually has a similar hoe on an old industrial tractor...that thing is very worn out compared to mine but then again he only paid $3500 for it...and it was a whole lot better than the alternative. What happens when that seal goes bad...I guess it just swings slower with little power untill it stops working completely?...I wish those things didn't swing so fast...mine isn't bad but the other one is very jumpy and difficult to control...BOB

[rufustoad]

Hello, I hate to hear about the obsolete boom swing. If you find a kit for the conventional double cyl let me know. I do a lot of work with engines and know that you want to be very carefull about tearing down turbo's. The tolerances are very very small and I have seen the wheel touch the cage under load after assembly and destroy the turbo. If there are no signs of oil in any of the ports or side to side shaft play you may just let it be. God Bless. Todd

[BOBWOOD]

Hey Todd...I'd certainly like to leave the turbo alone, however, the adaptor piece is worn through about 1/3 the way around....so I might not have any choice...Still not sure how it all goes together...there is only one small picture of it in the book and no explanation at all....I wasn't even sure it was a separate piece but the guy at the dealer found it on the parts site...I'm thinkng that it has to go in through the cage as it seems to be flared...don't know what holds it in there....can anyone elaborate furthur? Thanks BOB

[rufustoad]

Hey Bob, Not sure what adapter your talking about BUT, if their is any damage done either to the housing that the rotor is in or the rotor its self then that turbo is possibly junk. May want to take it to a turbo shop just to have a look at. In the testing that I do, if you rebuild that turbo and it is not write you can cause a lack of power or possibly damage the engine. Maybe send some pics?