Hello, I bought this 2010, looks like fair condition, but has sat for years inside a barn without being started. I replaced the glow plugs,pulled the injectors(to check for rust or being stuck-ok) cleaned the tank,it was almost full of fuel,so pretty clean. I am getting squirts of fuel at the injectors, it will fire on starting fluid then dies with a little white smoke. If i let it sit 5 min. put power to the glow plugs and turn it over, it will fire with out starting fluid at times? Any ideas?
Thanks
2010 diesal start
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- 40C crawler
- Posts: 16
- Joined: Sun Nov 22, 2009 7:10 pm
- Location: S.E.Indiana
- RedDirt
- 420 crawler
- Posts: 44
- Joined: Wed Jan 21, 2009 6:10 pm
- Location: California Sierra Nevada Mtns
Posted reply on the wrong subject. Sorry about that.
Mine can be hard starting too. Here are some things that helped me.
1. Make sure all 4 glow plugs are working fully. If you have a clamp ammeter that is the easiest way, should be about 7 - 9 amps per plug as I recall. Even though you replaced them there could be wiring or connectors that are limiting the current flow.
2. Go easy on the starting fluid, I hear it can blow these indirect motors. If I have to use it I barely wave a small mist over the intake. I'v taken the air cleaner off and used WD-40 sprayed in the intake to start and that has worked safer than starting fluid.
3. Make sure the clutch disconnect under your left foot is pulled up and latched in the up position when starting, this keeps the starter from having to turn over the transmission gears and speeds up the engine cranking.
4. After you get the engine to catch at all, immediately swing the switch back to the left and keep heating the glow plugs while it is chugging to a start. I'll do this for the first minute or so and it seems to get things rolling faster and smoother.
5. Check your hand operated primer pump to be working and use it per the instructions a few strokes before starting and then as it catches you can add a pump or two which will help get it to catch. You can over do this which is bad for both starting and washing the cylinder walls with diesel.
6. Cranking speed really matters, mine will crank a bit faster when on the battery charger so often put it on the charger or a jump to my truck if I'm having any problems. I hear that the injector pump on this model has a low RPM problem and it really needs every bit of cranking RPM it can get to get the fuel flowing.
7. The throttle setting is very particular on mine. I have to set mine at about 25% - 30% to have any chance of starting. If I go above 30% it will almost never start. I can add throttle as it starts to fire but pushing it up too fast too far will kill it.
8. If you haven't done so check and set the valve lash clearance. If valves are not seating or opening correctly it can mess with starting. I haven't seen this problem on mine but have on other diesels.
I get white smoke too on starting. I don't fully understand the white smoke vs. black smoke. Both seem to indicate problems. I get a blast of black when I push a stroke of primer pump diesel in. White smoke for me seems to indicate that it isn't getting enough fuel. Mine is getting better with more frequent starting and running so hang in there.
Mine can be hard starting too. Here are some things that helped me.
1. Make sure all 4 glow plugs are working fully. If you have a clamp ammeter that is the easiest way, should be about 7 - 9 amps per plug as I recall. Even though you replaced them there could be wiring or connectors that are limiting the current flow.
2. Go easy on the starting fluid, I hear it can blow these indirect motors. If I have to use it I barely wave a small mist over the intake. I'v taken the air cleaner off and used WD-40 sprayed in the intake to start and that has worked safer than starting fluid.
3. Make sure the clutch disconnect under your left foot is pulled up and latched in the up position when starting, this keeps the starter from having to turn over the transmission gears and speeds up the engine cranking.
4. After you get the engine to catch at all, immediately swing the switch back to the left and keep heating the glow plugs while it is chugging to a start. I'll do this for the first minute or so and it seems to get things rolling faster and smoother.
5. Check your hand operated primer pump to be working and use it per the instructions a few strokes before starting and then as it catches you can add a pump or two which will help get it to catch. You can over do this which is bad for both starting and washing the cylinder walls with diesel.
6. Cranking speed really matters, mine will crank a bit faster when on the battery charger so often put it on the charger or a jump to my truck if I'm having any problems. I hear that the injector pump on this model has a low RPM problem and it really needs every bit of cranking RPM it can get to get the fuel flowing.
7. The throttle setting is very particular on mine. I have to set mine at about 25% - 30% to have any chance of starting. If I go above 30% it will almost never start. I can add throttle as it starts to fire but pushing it up too fast too far will kill it.
8. If you haven't done so check and set the valve lash clearance. If valves are not seating or opening correctly it can mess with starting. I haven't seen this problem on mine but have on other diesels.
I get white smoke too on starting. I don't fully understand the white smoke vs. black smoke. Both seem to indicate problems. I get a blast of black when I push a stroke of primer pump diesel in. White smoke for me seems to indicate that it isn't getting enough fuel. Mine is getting better with more frequent starting and running so hang in there.
RedDirt - 2010 Diesel Crawler Loader Drott 4in1
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- 40C crawler
- Posts: 16
- Joined: Sun Nov 22, 2009 7:10 pm
- Location: S.E.Indiana
Remember not to ether if you have used the glow plugs, then you will get a boom.
Did you replace the fuel filters? If not, I would, I got a barn crawler like that once, and the filters were full of water and rust. Replace the filters, bleed the system, make sure you have fuel to the head of the pump, then thoroughly bleed the injectors.
Lavoy
Did you replace the fuel filters? If not, I would, I got a barn crawler like that once, and the filters were full of water and rust. Replace the filters, bleed the system, make sure you have fuel to the head of the pump, then thoroughly bleed the injectors.
Lavoy
If you have water in the fuel system past the fuel tank and are still getting freezing weather, it may be that the lines are frozen until they warm up. See if there is water in the sediment bowl. Also like Lavoy said, bleeding air out of the system will make a BIG difference.
(1) JD Straight 450 crawler dozer with manual outside blade; (2) JD 2010 diesel crawler loaders; (1) JD 2010 diesel dozer with hydraulic 6-way blade; (2) Model 50 backhoe attachments, misc. other construction equipment
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