Interested in buying shutters for a 40c. Im almost afraid to ask the price, but if theres a reasonable set floating around.... maybe? I know cardboard is free and has served me well but Santa forgot to leave something for the jd this year!
Thanks- Happy New Year to all!!!
radiator shutters for a 40c
Used are almost impossible to find, I have had only 3 useable shutters in probably 15 years. There is a guy in Iowa that makes new ones, not sure on price, but would guess in the $250 range. I put a set on a 40, and an MC, greatest thing you will ever put on them if you work in the Winter at all, they are just magic.
Lavoy
Lavoy
Thanks Lavoy- If you have a contact name, number, or something I would sure be interested in talking to him.
Also is there any modification or better place for the water temp sender to get a more accurite temp? My gauge is within 10 degrees when I test it but the radiator boils over when reading about 150, then I slide my trusty cardboard out to expose more of the radiator. Anyway it is a pain in a@#. What is the ideal temp anyway if you could regulate it?
Thanks again and Happy New Year!!!
Also is there any modification or better place for the water temp sender to get a more accurite temp? My gauge is within 10 degrees when I test it but the radiator boils over when reading about 150, then I slide my trusty cardboard out to expose more of the radiator. Anyway it is a pain in a@#. What is the ideal temp anyway if you could regulate it?
Thanks again and Happy New Year!!!
Ray III- I tested with a good thermometer against that gauge w/boiled water, and I have no thermostat on a 40. I think that is why shutters or something are that much more critical. If my crawler is not worked fairly hard even with radiator partially covered it will never come up to temp. It takes alot even with a covered radiator to bring over 140-150 and keep it there. Im not certain but I think 200 or so would be about target.
Also anyone know correct cap pressure if any? Mine has no gasket to seal so just loosely fits and allows to boil or slosh out.
Also anyone know correct cap pressure if any? Mine has no gasket to seal so just loosely fits and allows to boil or slosh out.
I think your gauge must be bad. The 40's already had the temp sender relocated compared to the early MC's because of faulty readings.
The guy that makes the shutters is Tim Sieren, he is out of Iowa I believe, but not sure.
Ray,
A 40 or MC will not warm up at all in the Winter without shutters, so condensation in the oil gets to be a problem. I know that previous to installing shutters on my brothers MC, I worked it to death pushing snow, and the block never really got warm to the touch. Now with the shutters, it can easily be kept at operating temp.
If you have a 420 or newer, they have a thermostat, so no need for shutters.
Lavoy
The guy that makes the shutters is Tim Sieren, he is out of Iowa I believe, but not sure.
Ray,
A 40 or MC will not warm up at all in the Winter without shutters, so condensation in the oil gets to be a problem. I know that previous to installing shutters on my brothers MC, I worked it to death pushing snow, and the block never really got warm to the touch. Now with the shutters, it can easily be kept at operating temp.
If you have a 420 or newer, they have a thermostat, so no need for shutters.
Lavoy
Lavoy- I dont know where a MC sender is but mine is on the back of the cyl head towards the bottom. The gauge is good or close anyway but maybe I have an MC head? Dont know if they are interchangeable. Would not surprise me as Ive ran into a few mismatched components. Or it just takes a really long time even with radiator near boiling to transfer heat through the sender. Thanks for the info on the shutters, I will look into them on Monday.
On a different note I did a compression test and #1 was at 120psi and #2 at 90psi cold. Squirted a bit of oil into #2 and adjusted valves to .012 and same. 30psi difference seems excessive but 90 doesnt quite justify tearing apart. Any thoughts?
Also need a voltage reg, radiator cap, and light switch, do have these
available?
Thanks
On a different note I did a compression test and #1 was at 120psi and #2 at 90psi cold. Squirted a bit of oil into #2 and adjusted valves to .012 and same. 30psi difference seems excessive but 90 doesnt quite justify tearing apart. Any thoughts?
Also need a voltage reg, radiator cap, and light switch, do have these
available?
Thanks
Sender in a 40 is at the back, yes. If you truly have boiling (212 degree) water at the radiator, and the gauge says 160, I still think you have a problem of some sort.
Normally you want cylinders to be 10% or less apart. If you got no increase with oil, you may have a valve with a flat spot, or a piece of carbon hanging it up.
Should have all the parts listed on hand.
Lavoy
Normally you want cylinders to be 10% or less apart. If you got no increase with oil, you may have a valve with a flat spot, or a piece of carbon hanging it up.
Should have all the parts listed on hand.
Lavoy
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