JD450 C 1976 Engine Removal Issue

[NIKinNZ]

Good evening all, i am finally getting round to doing some work on my 76 450C and am about to unbolt the engine from the clutch housing/bell housing
and hoist it out to replace leaky seals that are behind there (or i suspect), from what i can see, it looks like there are only 4 bolts bolting the engine on? two at the front going through from the rear of the engine into the clutch housing, and when in crawl under i can see 2 from behind on the clutch/bell housing that go in from behind, the issue with the ones that go in from behind is they are partially obstructed by the clutch/bell housing, so i cant get a socket on (VERY ANNOYING) so im guessing there is a special tool needed for this, i believe it is a 15/16 size? or do i need to adapt a spanner?

Any guidance or help would be appreciated if anyone had removed one of these before.

[Jim B]

I don't see any special tools related to those capscrews in the technical manuals I have available for a couple crawlers of the 450 model group.

You are not encountering anything mechanics don't regularly face. Having been a heavy equipment mechanic for a number of years I have a number of sockets, wrenches, and adapters, purchased and/or field modified, to fit in different places. If you don't have something that fits in your box, you may want to modify tools to fit. I don't know the availability of sources, like Snap-on tools, that have some specialty tools in your area. Such a vendor might have adapters like a box end crowfoot type, which might work.

The top two capscrews are 5/8"-11 x 4" and the lower two are 5/8"-11 x 2-1/2". You are correct the heads are 15/16" hex head. They are supposed to be torqued about 250-foot pounds I believe. There are also two dowel pins in that joint so it will not drop until the clutch housing and flywheel housing (the flat plate bolted to the rear of the engine) are moved apart 1/2" to 3/4".

If your rear main seal is leaking a special tool is needed to install the new unitized seals. With the flywheel housing mounted on the engine the seal has to be pressed into the housing and onto the crankshaft hub at the same time, to a specified depth, controlled by the design of the tool. I would consider replacing the rear main seal while the engine is out; even if it means taking the engine to a dealer or shop that has the tool, to have the seal replaced.

[NIKinNZ]

Thanks again Jim, great advice and much appreciated.