No master link pin in track ???

[reedgmi]

I've looked, and looked, and looked .... cannot identify the master link pin on my 1010C. What I do have is 1/2 dozen welded pins like in the pic below, per side. I have to get the final drive off (see my post yesterday, cracked & loose clutch housing), what are my options? I've been stumped by anything mechanical before, but this 1010C is really testing me.
What are my options and potential work-arounds?
Any other way to identify the master? the parts manual shows the link is different for the master pin .... visually different, or just some microns in the bore diameter?
Maybe it is one of the welded ones .... I could start grinding ...
Any way to release all tension, dismantle front idler wheel, then get the track out of the way, whole?

[Jim B]

I would guess the one welded in is the master pin. Likely welded as it wouldn't stay in.

[reedgmi]

Unfortunately, I've got 5 with welded heads on the right side!

Good news is, I did find it in the left side. Also welded, but I could still recognize the 2 flats on the inside head, and the snap ring groove on the outside. Also seems that the master is almost 6" long, while a standard pin is 5.5"?

Back to the right side (the side that I need to work on) - I did recognize that one of the welded ones is in a link that looks a little different. Can't clearly read part number though. The raised boss on the link surrounding the pin head is lower. But the odd thing is : the inside side of that pin has the same flat end as all the others.

At this point, I'm thinking I just have to grind the weld on the most hopeful one, and start working on it?

Really a bit concerned that I end up at a point of no return, with no solution.

[Lavoy]

In the scheme of things, worst case scenario, pick a pin, burn a hole into each end, knock it out, I have drive master pins on hand, won't hurt a thing.
Lavoy

[reedgmi]

Thanks Lavoy. That means the ID of the link is the same for both master pin & normal pins? Just different OD on the pin?
I saw the link part number is different between normal & master.

[gus]

Remove the 2 adjoining track plates. Much easier to work on it.

[reedgmi]

Remove the 2 adjoining track plates. Much easier to work on it.

Yep, will do.

[jimmydiesel]

reedgmi

These pictures may not help you but might help someone else searching this thread for how to locate the master pin.
The first picture shows the head of the master pin and how the master link is different.
The second picture shows the other end of the pin and how the pin boss in the master link is shorter.





These are both 440’s. Both are John Deere 2 bolt track links (chains)
The 440 and 1010 4 bolt master links are the same part number. The 440 and 1010 use the same master pin.

[reedgmi]

Interesting .... so 3 different link types:

1. Normal one, for standard pin
2. One with a low boss, for the clip side of master pin (always on outside?)
3. One with two flats for the D-shaped end of the master pin.

I think somewhere in the last 60 years, someone has been messing with my track I've got combinations that don't match ....

[dtoots1]

And once again we get to SEE the highly specialized technical C-clip!!! I like it..

[jimmydiesel]

Interesting .... so 3 different link types:

1. Normal one, for standard pin
2. One with a low boss, for the clip side of master pin (always on outside?)
3. One with two flats for the D-shaped end of the master pin.

I think somewhere in the last 60 years, someone has been messing with my track I've got combinations that don't match ....

4 different links. The track - chains or rails as my father called them growing up. Is made up out of left and right links a bushing and pin.
So a 5 roller 1010 would have 35 right and 35 left links, 1 right master link and 1 left master link. 36 bushings, 35 plain pins, 1 master pin and a C clip/snap ring.
Over the years a lot of mixing and matching went on.

[jimmydiesel]

And once again we get to SEE the highly specialized technical C-clip!!! I like it..

The “ very rare optional high strength master pin retainer “ on this crawler was a heavier gauge wire than the replacement “mechanic’s “ wire I had in stock. So I double wrapped it. Time will tell if this modification to the design will be successful.

[reedgmi]

Success!

It was a fight for a better part of the day yesterday, but finally it succumbed. From the link part numbers cast in, seems I had a master link paired with a normal one. Still don't know about the pin, because the head was welded. Anyway - out now! A lot of heat cycles with the torch was the key, I guess. I didn't really hit that hard.

Now the fun can start with my cracked & loose clutch housing, and extreme wear in the front idler guides ...More posts coming!

[jimmydiesel]

Success! Good to hear.
I like the creativity of your pin driver support.