350B Clutch replacement... Am I out of adjustment or plain worn out?

[BilgeRat]

Hi Everyone... my family inherited my father-in-laws crawler and we have done a lot of work with it since his passing 10 years ago. We try to take good care of it but not sure what to do at this point. This may be a very stupid question to many but it has me stumped:

Driving along I pull the clutch//brake lever and it is very slow to turn if it turns at all. I have the manual and have tried to adjust the clutch levers and brake band many times but the same issue every time. I can't tell if the problem is the brakes are worn down and won't slow that track OR if the clutches are bad? I tend to think that since the dozer moves forward well that the clutches grab and work oK? Last summer I did most of the work to pull one side of the rear end apart but when I saw the price of the replacement clutches I realized I couldnt afford that at that time (both sides pretty much) so I put it all back together thinking maybe I am just out of adjustment still. All back together, same problems. I do know that when I pull back super hard the brake seems to make a squeely/grabbing/sound which is not smooth. I have tried pushing against a tree stump to see if the worst offending track will disengage and when I pull the clutch lever on that side the engine bogs down - it seems it just doesn't want to release? I think I am losing my mind on this!

How should I approach this? What is the best source for brake and clutch parts? I know our crawler is very old and tired but we sure love to have it working and for our purposes it is all we need.

Thanks for you help!
Jay
Vermont, USA

[BilgeRat]

ps: there are times when the clutches completely disengage while pulling the levers so I know they are not frozen or rusted together.
Jay

[Jim B]

Welcome to the Boards.

As to where to get parts. Lavoy Wilcox,who provides this site for us to us has a shop and store where he works on these older crawlers and sells parts for them. Along with that of you have a problem with parts from him or the repair, you can call or email him and get help from him.

You description sounds like the steering clutch is dragging. If all the linkages are moving freely and aren't worn in bushings,holes, and pins there may be some rusting or roughness in the grooves the splined ride in causing them to hang at times. The noise when you pull hard on the brake sounds like a bad or contaminated band. A teardown is required to fix those things.

One other thing that has not been asked is: Does your 350B have the power steering option and, if so, have you checked that it is working properly?

[BilgeRat]

Thanks Jim B. This is great. I didn't know Lavoy Wilcox provided the site. I will be happy to support his business once I find out what parts I need.

Yes. This 350B does have the power steering option. The mechanism under the seat seems free but I can't really tell if the system is working? I had a very difficult time trying to sort that out whereas the actuator slides back and forth - I wish I knew how to adjust that part of the system? It all looks like witchcraft to me....

Hey! I just understood what you mentioned about the spline grooves maybe being messy and hanging. Maybe this explains why once in a while it seems to turn a little better and other times it doesnt turn much at all. The little bit I used it recently I had to make turns in reverse.... does this help trouble shoot anything?

Any other thoughts ?
jay

[Stan Disbrow]

Hi,

The clutch pack is always made up and the brakes off until you pull back the stick. Then, two things happen, in order. The clutch disengages and, after that, the brake makes up. This cuts drive to the track and then stops it and you turn around the stopped track.

The adjustment is to ensure that the clutch pack disengages before the brake is applied.

Sounds like on one side, the clutch disengages but the brake does not apply. That leads to turning, but very slowly.

Sounds like the other side, the clutch is not disengaging but the brake then is applied leading to loading down the engine and the brake band making a squealing noise.

Dry clutch packs sometimes swell up and so never disengage again. Brake bands wear down and quit working. '

Stan

[BilgeRat]

Thanks Stan. I guess I just have to take the plunge and take both rear ends apart. I was hoping for some new ideas that might help me avoid this.

Is there any info available on how to adjust the power steering mechanism under the seat? IT looks like I might see it is releasing, but I really can't tell if it is working? Duh.....

My wife swears I am "trainable" but on this project I am having my doubts! '
j

[Jim B]

If you have the TM1032 technical manual for your 350B, it should have info on the power assist steering. Does it have a reservoir on the power steering pump, and is it full?

The Operator's Manual (OMT46859) is another one you should pick up If you do not have a copy.

[BilgeRat]

Thanks Jim B!

I have been working from the (OMT46859) manual but I don't have the other one you are suggesting (TM1032). I'll see where I can pick that up?

And I don't recall a separate power steering reservoir so I'll look into that first. Silly me. Should have figured that out first but my current manual doesn't dive that deep.

Thanks so much.

[Jim B]

The Operator's Manual is for routine maintenance an operator or owner would do. I am surprised it doesn't mention checking the power steering reservoir. The pump should be on the upper right front of the engine, if I remember correctly.

The TM is John Deere's name for service manuals starting around the introduction of the 350B. That manual will have specs and info on the "heavier" repairs the manual writers would expect people would take to the dealers.

You can check with Lavoy he may be able to get that manual through his store. You a
can use the publication number TM 1032 to look on places like eBay for good used original copies. Beware of some reprints which can be poor quality graphics and electronic copies being sold cheap as they may be incomplete.