2010 head replacement

General help and support for your Lindeman through 2010 John Deere crawler
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ironyetty
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2010 head replacement

Post by ironyetty » Tue May 22, 2007 5:17 am

To catch everyone up I recently replaced a cracked head on my 2010 ICD
For some reason I lost compression and couldn't figure what the problem was, so I repaced the gasket again just incase dirt or something was holding the head from sealing properly. I appear to be getting compression now, at least the motor seems to pop while cranking it over and white smoke comes out the stack. I think I have got the fuel lines bleed but possibly not good enough.

Shouldn't the motor act like it is trying to start even if the fuel lines aren't completly air free? In other words I'm stumped, anyone have any suggestions

Thnaks in advance,
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ironyetty
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Post by ironyetty » Tue May 22, 2007 5:22 am

I guess I should also mention that I used a cheap compression gauge on the first cylinder and got a reading of 330 , but the junk tester I was using striped the threads on the adaptor so I didn't get to check the rest of the cylinders. The reading was in range for what the book said but I am not sure what kind of rpm's I was turning when I checked this.


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Lavoy
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Post by Lavoy » Tue May 22, 2007 7:42 am

If you have any air at all in the lines, you will not get the engine to run. The air acts as a cushion for the injector pulse, kind of like the expansion tank above your water heater. It absorbs all of the pulse, so the pressure never gets high enough to open the injector. Keep in mind you are dealing in maybe 1500PSI or more, so it does not take much air. You could give it a small whiff of ether to see if it fires, just don't get out of hand, and do not use the glow plugs at all if you are going to do this.
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ironyetty
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Post by ironyetty » Tue May 22, 2007 3:58 pm

Just curious, but why not use the glow plugs with the ether?

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wwattson
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Post by wwattson » Tue May 22, 2007 4:30 pm

I can't miss out on an opportunity to get something completely wrong, so I'd guess that it has to do with the idea that the glow plugs could ignite the ether all by themselves even with the valves still partially open whereas without the glow plugs the ether should hold off at least until somewhere near the top of the compression stroke where you want it to fire.

How'd I do Lavoy?
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Post by Lavoy » Tue May 22, 2007 6:35 pm

Bill,
Right on the money. On the whole it can be summed up by one word.

BOOM!

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Stretch
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Post by Stretch » Wed May 23, 2007 2:10 am

A good alternative to ether is WD-40.
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ironyetty
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Post by ironyetty » Wed May 23, 2007 4:29 am

WD-40? Thats a new one on me, never heard of WD-40 being used?

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ironyetty
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Post by ironyetty » Wed May 23, 2007 4:31 am

Didn't these systems have a raw fuel injection on the air intake of some of them? Did the idea help them start any easier?

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Post by Lavoy » Wed May 23, 2007 8:04 am

I ran Dad's Buick diesel out of fuel one time. They were a pig to bleed, local fuel man sprayed WD40 in the intake, and it would start on that.

I have run a couple with the fuel primer, I still don't know why it works, but in cold weather it does, but you have to have good glow plugs, or it is a waste of time.
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Tigerhaze
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Post by Tigerhaze » Wed May 23, 2007 8:04 am

There was a thread on another board about using WD-40 instead of ether; several guys on that board said they have used WD-40 for years with no problems and that the lower volatility reduces some of the risks to the piston rings from uneven ignition of the ether.

I have yet to try WD-40 but I wouldn't think it would hurt anything.
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Stan Disbrow
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Post by Stan Disbrow » Wed May 23, 2007 8:53 am

Hi,

Well, WD-40 is a light oil so it makes sense that it works to help start a diesel.

I used to use it on my old 93 F350 with mechanical injection whenever I changed the fuel filter. Just spray some down the intake and it'll run well enough to purge the lines. Don't need it of course with the 97 as that's a Powerstroke and they have a reservior downstream of the filter, so it's just crank it up and it takes care of itself. :)

Ether is just too apt to screw something up. I recall when the Deere 4620 turbo came out they had this big warning in the manual about No Ether. The very first one we sold came back as soon as cold weather hit, with the head bolts all stretched. The farmer used ether, since Deere had left the dashboard ether port in place! Deere replaced the engine and then issued a service bulletin to go out and remove the ether ports. ;)

Stan
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Post by rvbarkley » Wed May 23, 2007 7:34 pm

In the past, I've used WD-40 on gas engines as in lawn mower types. Worked fine, I usually use carburator cleaner lately.

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Stretch
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Post by Stretch » Thu May 24, 2007 1:49 am

I have used WD-40 for years on Cat, Detroit, Perkins, Cummins, and any other diesel I was trying to get running. It is a much better alternative than a run away or detonation.( I hate it when that happens ) :o
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