frame rail removal

[rustydeeretech]

i have just bought a 350 dozer it had a problem with engine oil leaking when it was sitting so i pulled the belly pans and found the oil pan rusted from having so much dirt in the belly pans fixed the pan and while i was under the machine i found 2 bolts on each side broke that tie part # T21249 bushing to the frame rail and to the bell housing after doing some more looking found out on the right side all the bolts are broke on this "bushing " deere calls it but they are broke so i cant slide it out since they didnt break flush with the bell housing so the only what i see to fix this is pull the frame rail what would the best way on going about pulling the frame rail do i need to take the 6 way blade frame off do i need to pull the undercarriage off or can i just unbolt the frame rail and just pull it off

[JWB Contracting]

It will be possible with the track on, but I think you need to remove the Dozer mounting assembly. We always remove the Dozer completely and break the tracks apart.

Here is what we do

- split both tracks
- remove Dozer
- remove both Dozer mounts
- remove both side boxes and fenders
- remove hard nose
- loosen both caps that mount the tractor to the rear cross bar
- remove any bolts that you can that mount the frame sections to the bell housing and front cross member
- remove floor boards
- remove rear fame mounting bolts. If on reverser valve side, I remove the clutch spring. I think your on the non vavle body side based on the bushing comment. A socket universal joint will be an asset for removing the rear frame bolts
- put a hydraulic jack under the hydraulic pump mounting assembly and jack up until you have clearance between the frame and front crossmember
- remove frame assembly

Now you can work on removing the broken bolts. The bolts from the bottom can be difficult and most often we remove the engine and then the reverser so it can be flipped upside down. You can upsize the bolts by 1 size safely if the threads are ruined.

We just did 3 of these in 2012 and have 1 on deck.

Buy some new high quality bolts for reinstallation. And since it will be ripped down check your front crossmember to track frame mounts, another weak point.

[rustydeeretech]

well today i got the blade off along with the nose but i was having some trouble on getting the pin out of the blade frame /mount part #U13798 its the pin in the back by the sprocket with a hole through it. http://jdpc.deere.com/jdpc/servlet/com. ... &model=350 part number 4 do you have any advise on getting the pin out or will just heating it get it on out thanks for your time neal

[JWB Contracting]

Well it's a good sign that the pin is tight.

If you have a puller set that would be best, a 6 foot chain attached to the pin with a bolt may work (whip the chain) or you can make a home built puller. I've used all of these methods. There is no room to hammer it through.

[rustydeeretech]

well i got the pin out and the frame rail off got one bolt out of the "bushing " with the easy out had to drill the other one out and tap it to 3/4 now my issue im having is that i can see the 2 bolt holes on the rt side bell housing are obliged i have been told its alright to go one size bigger have you ever done this if so what have you done to get the holes back true maybe a ream once this side is done i will be able to reassemble and move to the other side! thanks for all your help