350, trying to figure out what engine I have.....

[darius228]

So finally after google searching every number I pulled off of my deere 350 dozer for HOURS after being led to believe it's a mid 70's dozer, I finally started making headway in finding out that it's actually a '68. I've been striking out running numbers, the only luck I've had was on this site finding a listing of year's and serial numbers which is how I found out it's actually a 68. I am trying to buy a complete engine rebuild kit but there are a few options and I just want to be sure what I have before I go spending a fair chunk of change on a rebuild kit. I've got a boat load of numbers that I can't make any sense of other than I've figured out it's a straight 350 and it's a '68.

vin tag- T4F3D-078881T
Numbers off of the engine- T28935 T30000
Numbers behind gauges( engine compartment side)-T24404 T24405

I know this is my first post here but I'm in a bit of a bind and I'm not sure how far out the rebuild kit will be..... I'm hoping the wealth of knowledge on this site will get me going the right direction asap. Thank you for any help!

[jdemaris]

Numbers off of the engine- T28935 T30000

You've probably got the engine block casting # wrong. It's probably a T26935. Easy to confuse the 8 with a 6. It's the early 152 diesel that used sleeves originally with one o-ring. It was upgraded and new sleeves will have three o-rings each ON the sleeve. Engine used in 10202, 1030s, 350s, early 350Bs, 380 forklifts, etc.

Over time Deere had three different sleeves for the 152 diesel.

First was your's. Original sleeve bottom has a squared-off end and only one seal. Second is the update for this engine. New sleeves come with extra grooves ON the sleeve and take three seals. No seals go in the block.

Third was sleeves with tapered bullet-shaped bottoms. One seal per sleeve and two more seals IN the block.

[darius228]

So I found a place that offer's an overhaul kit for the 152 with liner's with the O ring ON sleeve, that should be the version I need correct? I just want to make sure there arent different variations and that I get the proper kit the first time.

I think you are correct on the 8 actually being a 6, it is a 45 year old machine and I was having a hard time identifying some of the numbers. Thank you for your help.

[vestor_guy]

I would not buy any overhaul kit until I have it apart and see what you need.

[jdemaris]

So I found a place that offer's an overhaul kit for the 152 with liner's with the O ring ON sleeve, that should be the version I need correct?

It should be plural, i.e. "o-rings" on the sleeve. When new the sleeve had one o-ring and no grooves. The upgrade was a sleeve with two grooves cut into it. So, three o-rings per sleeve.

These various descriptions apply to your engine.

Basic In-Frame engine kit. For 1020 diesel, 3 cylinder 152 CID. To engine s\n 154765. Contains complete sleeve and piston kit with rings, pins & retainers, valve grind gasket set and pan gasket. TISCO supplies 3.86 standard bore 3 ring piston. 2 seal ring grooves on piston sleeve.

In-frame engine kit. For AG: 820, 1020, 1030, all SN<154765, IND: 300, 300A, 350A, 350B, 380 all SN<154765 all with 3.152 Diesel, 300 Series, O'rings on Liner, 3 cylinder, block #'s T24963 & T26935, 3.86" bore, 1.185" pin. Engine Major Overhaul Kit includes: Piston Liner kit, Main Bearings set, Crank Seals, Connecting Rod Bearings\Bushings\Bolts set, Gasket Overhaul set. When ordering, specify in comments Main Bearing Size of Standard, .010, .020 or.030, Thrust Bearing Size of Standard, .010, .020 or.030, Connecting Rod Bearing Size of Standard, .010, .020, or.030. Rear Seal will not fit with flywheel housing marked T20300, T22991.

Sleeve and piston kit - Complete, one used per engine. For 1020 diesel, 3 cylinder 152 CID. To engine s\n 154765. Sleeves-2 grooves on sleeve, 3 ring pistons & rings, 1-3\16 outside diameter pins & retainers, for 3.86 bore.

[darius228]

The motor is torn down and the liners are out. This project started at "a repair guys" shop and 2 years later im going I'm going to finish it.

[jdemaris]

The motor is torn down and the liners are out. This project started at "a repair guys" shop and 2 years later im going I'm going to finish it.

The 350 engine is a pretty easy one to work on. The one glitch as I see it is the cylinder head. Deere was too cheap to use hardened valve-seat inserts. The original seats are ground directly into the head casting and induction hardened. So, once you take a seat griinder or cutter to them - you can lose that hardness pretty easy unless you can get by with just lightly skimming over the seats. One you grind the seats and reface the valves - you get a valve-depth-in-head problem. Not an issue in a gas engine but can be critical in the Deere diesel when it comes to cold weather starting. So, often the head has to go to a machine shop to be cut for seat inserts. With the new inserts - the valve-depth can be "adjusted" by various height seats and/or depth of cut of the new holes.

Years back (late 60s/70s) Deere was suggesting we grind the seats - and then buy overly-thick valves and/or resurface the head to get the valve-depth correct. Deere told us it was OK to take as much as .040" off the head-gasket surface of the head. So, if you did a valve job - and the valves were then .020" too deep - we took .020" off the head to compensate. Also, TRW used to sell valves with extra thick and high heads for Deere heads. Not sure if they exist anymore. Back then, installing valve-seat inserts into non-insert heads was not done by all shops. Now - I think it's more-or-less routine. It took Deere a long time to start using OEM heads with inserts. Seems they started using them when turbochargers first came factory installed.

[darius228]

The motor is torn down and the liners are out. This project started at "a repair guys" shop and 2 years later im going I'm going to finish it.

The 350 engine is a pretty easy one to work on. The one glitch as I see it is the cylinder head. Deere was too cheap to use hardened valve-seat inserts. The original seats are ground directly into the head casting and induction hardened. So, once you take a seat griinder or cutter to them - you can lose that hardness pretty easy unless you can get by with just lightly skimming over the seats. One you grind the seats and reface the valves - you get a valve-depth-in-head problem. Not an issue in a gas engine but can be critical in the Deere diesel when it comes to cold weather starting. So, often the head has to go to a machine shop to be cut for seat inserts. With the new inserts - the valve-depth can be "adjusted" by various height seats and/or depth of cut of the new holes.

Years back (late 60s/70s) Deere was suggesting we grind the seats - and then buy overly-thick valves and/or resurface the head to get the valve-depth correct. Deere told us it was OK to take as much as .040" off the head-gasket surface of the head. So, if you did a valve job - and the valves were then .020" too deep - we took .020" off the head to compensate. Also, TRW used to sell valves with extra thick and high heads for Deere heads. Not sure if they exist anymore. Back then, installing valve-seat inserts into non-insert heads was not done by all shops. Now - I think it's more-or-less routine. It took Deere a long time to start using OEM heads with inserts. Seems they started using them when turbochargers first came factory installed.

Thank you for the info, but the only thing the previous guy that was working on it did was have the head done and new valves. Hopefully he knew that also, I'm hoping he did as he's been an equipment mechanic for many many years.