temp / pressure working range

Post support questions about your JD350 and newer crawler here
Post Reply
andregrondin
440 crawler
440 crawler
Posts: 215
Joined: Mon Apr 18, 2011 6:51 am
Location: Granby,Québec, Canada

temp / pressure working range

Post by andregrondin » Mon Mar 05, 2012 11:57 am

Hello !

I've search the forum ( the right way hopefully)

I've been thru the parts catalog as well as the repair manual and I can't find
what is the tempature range of the running diesel ( is it between 100 to 160 or form 140 to 240 )


found the normal range of oil pressure:

serial -22836 = 30 to 40 psi
serial 22837 -= 45 to 65 psi

so if I undertand properly then my dozer ( serial 08883T) would be under the range of 30 to 40 psi .

no gauges are working and it pi... me off !!

I try to fix all the gauges ( TEMP/ OIL PRESSURE / AMMETER )
so far from what I found would be that the temp sender is short ( been removed and test with voltmeter in DIODE test mode )


so I will try to test the gauge itself but I'm not sure how .
I want to put 12v direct from battery to gauge + & - on each terminal to find out if the needle is moving properly .

any tricks an help welcome
Dig in boy !!
J-D 350 straight 1966
model # = T4F3D
serial # = 08883T

J-D 690-B 1980
model # = D690B
serial # = 007364T

Mack RB688S 1990 dumper

User avatar
440 iron popper
1010 crawler
1010 crawler
Posts: 273
Joined: Sun Sep 26, 2010 7:48 pm
Location: Québec, Canada

Post by 440 iron popper » Mon Mar 05, 2012 7:34 pm

Hi André,

Operating temperature of an old diesel engine is between 160 F to 185 F.

For the temperature gauge problem. There are 2 types I know on old machines. In both cases the sender is a variable resistor.

1. 3 wires gauge with +, Signal, -. You put 12V on + and a potentiometer between signal and - wich is also grounded. If you change the resistor value (turning the pot) the needle will move accordingly.

2. 2 wires gauge with + and -. You put 12V on +. Then a potentiometer on - and the other side of it to the ground. Again when turning the pot, the needle will follow. In this setup, if you put 12V directly to the + et - terminals, the needle will go Overheat!



You can get replacement with Stewart warner I guess. You might also consider changing to a mechanical gauge that is not very expensive.

I hope that helps.
440IC 1958 #443712, 602 blade, Gearmatic winch project in the back
440IC, serial tag gone, Blade with tilt
-------------------------------------------------------

andregrondin
440 crawler
440 crawler
Posts: 215
Joined: Mon Apr 18, 2011 6:51 am
Location: Granby,Québec, Canada

Post by andregrondin » Tue Mar 06, 2012 11:18 am

Hi !

Ironpopper , thank you for the help ,

here is what I have done

1- remove the sensor from the motor ( scary moment cause it was
jammed ).

2- clean the sensor of paint and rust.

3- tested with voltmeter in DIODE mode ( means that when you touch
the leads together you hear BEEEEP , meaning ther is continuity) so it
means it is not OPEN which is good .

Image


4- connect leads at both end of the sensor , put the volmeter in OHM
mode , reading zero OHM then heat up the sensor gently with a very
small butane torch and start seing OHM going slightly up meaning the
sensor is still good .


Image

Image

so far my diagnostic is that the sensor is good and performing well.

next step will be checking the gauge itself and also checking that ther is no short anywhere,

What I will do to check the gauge will be to connect it has it is suppose to be and heat-up the sensor with the torch .


I will post pics
Dig in boy !!
J-D 350 straight 1966
model # = T4F3D
serial # = 08883T

J-D 690-B 1980
model # = D690B
serial # = 007364T

Mack RB688S 1990 dumper

Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Google [Bot] and 365 guests