450B Steering Issues…

[Struckzb86]

Hello,
A little backstory: my father, a member here, bought a 450b many years ago. The machine had been neglected, but engine most aspects of the machine were still serviceable. From the beginning the left side steering was much more difficult from the right. The right side had always steered in a beautiful manner, requiring much less effort on the levers than the left. The left side steers better intermittently, but it’s never great. Marginally better in reverse… maybe.

My dad, repacked the steering clutches and had brake shop put new liner on bands. He rebuilt the booster cylinders as well. This did not seem to much improve the steering on the left side.

Fast forward about 8-10 years, my family moved 2200 miles away to a rural area in southern Missouri, on 15 acres. My dad, being the great father he is, loaded it up on his trailer and hauled it all the way down here from Washington state! Anyway, needless details aside, it is now my turn to figure out what’s going on with the left side steering.

Pulling back on levers, clutches release, stopping both tracks, and pushing against a stump, both tracks will spin, to the point the engine will stall. Pulling back on each side while under load(pushing dirt), will release the corresponding clutch side. I was naughty a few times and didn’t tarp the operator station (it doesn’t rain a lot in souther Missouri, but when it rains it RAINS).

Anyhow, the right side clutch adjustment and brake adjustment, never needs attention. I am usually having to fiddle with the left side constantly. Backing off the adjustment bolt three detents or 1 1/4 turn, seems to not leave enough braking action. I will tighten another detent, which gives me some braking action. Though it groans and still, does not feel anything like the right side, there is also an occasional pulsating in the lever I can feel. So something is clearly not correct with the left side brake components. Even after clutch rebuild and new brake band.

I have pulled the machine up on blocks, and have the battery box off, clutch cover plate (the big one) off, have the old (new) brake band out. The drum, doesn’t have what I would consider too much wear, maybe 1/16-1/8” of a shoulder on the drum at the most. The brake band still has lots of meat left, and no uneven wear. The vertical shaft that operates the pressure plate is stiff, but moves. I’m really at a loss for what else the problem could be.

[LeonardL]

First of all welcome to Missouri!! I'm north and a bit east of you near Jeff City. And you're right about the rain. We can go from flood to drought inside of a week.
Assuming you have a tech manual I would refer to it for all of the linkage components. If you don't have a manual then you need to get one. You need to really inspect the linkage and make sure it is working freely. I'm not real familiar with the older 450 linkage but I do know that like the 350s, the linkage can seize due to rust. This can cause hard steering because it is trying to engage the brake before the clutch. Get everything working freely and then run your adjustments per the manual.

[Struckzb86]

Thank you for the welcome! Been down here since 2021. Kind of doing the homesteading thing, at least as a hobby. We live in Birch Tree, a bit to the east of West Plains.

I do have the manuals, and have been using them. I guess I’ll just identify all the possible linkages, yokes, bell cranks, levers etc associated with the brake and clutch, and ensure they’re moving freely. Thinking about taking everything out of the clutch housing, and cleaning/ inspecting each component. Of course I parked it with the master pin under the machine… I wasn’t necessarily expecting to have to pull the clutch. I should have had the forethought to position pin behind sprocket. I don’t know if I can take much out without removing the drum. I hope I don’t have to break the tracks, then I’ll be tempted to get new rails…

[LeonardL]

I know Birch Tree well as we lived in Salem for forty years before moving closer to our two sons. Where I worked sent me all over the state but mostly the bottom half. I have been to West plains and the surrounding area several times over the years and Birch Tree being one of the towns where I have been. I also grew up in Missouri over in Iron County. Been here my whole life and grew up in a homestead lifestyle. Only we didn't know it was called that. We were just living off of a small farm with a huge garden and we all had chores to do. Dad was a railroader so it was up to Mom and my brothers and sisters to do most of what needed done.

Anyway... Back to your crawler... you shouldn't have to remove the track. You will however need to rotate it to align the hole in the sprocket so you can remove the stub shaft. This allows you to lift the clutch up and out of the housing. Your manual should show this process. So good luck and keep us posted on what you find.

[dtoots1]

When working on any of these machines....best option is jacking up on concrete floor after driving both tracks over 2- 2 by planks under each track....jack up a couple inches for room underneath...with jack stands pr solid wood blocking....then pull the 2 by planks from under the tracks and you can then either start her up to move tracks...or use comealong to pull track to position..for work..of course position master pin about 2 oclock and take that track shoe off for clearance.