Military Surplus JD 350 Straight

[bulletpruf]

I have 350b manuals, it turns out that it was last used in 23, I was able to steer it with the clutches/ brakes while wenching it so the clutches are not froze up and the brakes are effective, may have dodged that bullet. I need to sort out electrical and I assume fuel but we will see

Ok, so you didn't start it up? I saw the wires to the starter relay/solenoid had been chewed through, but I had planned to bring some fresh diesel, an auxiliary pump, a jump pack, and a remote starter switch. I did verify that the engine turned over; I was able to turn it using the alternator belt.

[bulletpruf]

I have 350b manuals, it turns out that it was last used in 23, I was able to steer it with the clutches/ brakes while wenching it so the clutches are not froze up and the brakes are effective, may have dodged that bullet. I need to sort out electrical and I assume fuel but we will see

On the fuel, do yourself a favor and remove and clean out the fuel cutoff valve under the seat. It has a tiny little orifice in it that will get plugged up easily.

[bulletpruf]

never mind i found the info, it seems that the CBC pump was the earlier design and that rostamaster was sold to stanadyne who discontinued support for this pump, but this one was recently rebuilt/replaced, it is a different color so i assume that it was replaced so it should be good for a wile.
also i have a complete spare engine so i assume that i can take the newer pump/drive off of it and retrofit.
I'm breaking out my inspection camera to look in the tank to determine if i need to clean it before proceeding, just looking into the fill port it looks good.
the tank does not currently have a inlet strainer, is there a good place to get a replacement?

It's easy enough to drain the tank; there should be two drain plugs on the bottom. I took an extra long toilet brush (check Amazon) and get it all the sediment stirred up and then drained mine and got a lot of crap out.

I don't think these came with a strainer. Mine doesn't have one and I'm not seeing one listed in the parts book, either.

[dabear3428]

i stuck a camera into the tank and there is a bit of growth in it as well as a little rust, i will be dumping the fuel before running it, the tank has been moved back about 5" so the ports may be more difficult to get to. I'm thinking that i will use the 350b as spares, i will look at the 6 way control not sure it will be in that much better condition than yours, let you know.

[dabear3428]

if you could pleas post a photo of your 350 key, missing mine and do not know what they look like, amazon/ebay are filled with them but all different and no clear detail on exactly what is the correct one.

[bulletpruf]

if you could pleas post a photo of your 350 key, missing mine and do not know what they look like, amazon/ebay are filled with them but all different and no clear detail on exactly what is the correct one.

Ok, it's at the shop, so I'll have to remember to take a picture of it.

[bulletpruf]

i stuck a camera into the tank and there is a bit of growth in it as well as a little rust, i will be dumping the fuel before running it, the tank has been moved back about 5" so the ports may be more difficult to get to. I'm thinking that i will use the 350b as spares, i will look at the 6 way control not sure it will be in that much better condition than yours, let you know.

I wouldn't mind moving my seat back some. I'm 6'4" and don't fit real well on this one.

[dabear3428]

cool ill show you mine if you show me yours lol

[dabear3428]

i'm 6-2 and husky, i was surprised when i sat in this one before i noticed what they did to it

[dabear3428]

woot!, cleaned out the fuel tank put some fresh in, hotwired the fuel cut off, jumped the s terminal on the starter, it made 3 revolutions and came to life. runs good, idles good accelerates when you push the throttle. there was antifreeze in the rad, i ran it for a few seconds and shut it off. i have a lot of electrical gremlins no doubt like the alternator is not hooked up and no key as well as all of the wiring that needs to be replaced.

but good start.

[bulletpruf]

woot!, cleaned out the fuel tank put some fresh in, hotwired the fuel cut off, jumped the s terminal on the starter, it made 3 revolutions and came to life. runs good, idles good accelerates when you push the throttle. there was antifreeze in the rad, i ran it for a few seconds and shut it off. i have a lot of electrical gremlins no doubt like the alternator is not hooked up and no key as well as all of the wiring that needs to be replaced.

but good start.

That's awesome news! Did you confirm that it moves forward and in reverse? Hydraulics work?

[dabear3428]

ok here is mine:
ok how do you insert photos on this site?
Anyway,
I have not moved it or run it too long, the real work on this 350 is going to be electrical, looks like they had a good mech go over the mech components but he was sloppy/un-educated as to electrical. The main electrical connector block has been overheated and falling apart. I will not be moving it or running the hydraulics until i sort it out. i will not band aid the electrical because it can lead to a lot of not working in the field in the worst positions.
I did find that the main pivot on the 6 way blade has a lot of play, i can push the top of the blade back 6" with my hands with it in the air. most likely i will have to pull the pin and re-bush it.
should i use bronze or steel for a bushing and what type of bronze or steel?
i have the hood off and i can say that the forestry exhaust guard is a pain, anyway the rest of the testing will have to wait until i have this in a better electrical state.
I checked the oil in the reverser and it is clean enough that i have a hard time telling what the level is on the dip stick. I will be surprised if the reverser has any issues. as far as i can tell this 350 was freshened up around 23 and not used much after that, it has a new starter, injector pump, hoses, oil in the reverser etc and they are not dirty so i know it was not used much after they were installed.
is there a good source for the electrical connector on these or is it a unicorn?

[dabear3428]

ok Bulletpruf, have it your way, i got to thinking about it and before i spend a lot of money on electrical rewiring, i should check out the other important (read expensive) sub assemblies. So with fire extinguisher at hand and the hood off so i could put out any fires that may pop up, i started it:
1. the blade works as intended.
2. the transmission works in all 4 gears / reverse (yea i am failure with the reverser and reverse transmission thing).
3 the reverser works as intended.
4.the steering clutches hold and release.
5. the steering brakes have authority with about 2" of free play in the levers.
6.the foot clutch works as intended.
7. the foot break works but either the return spring is out or it is rusted up because it would not release, i had to pull it up with my toe.

the foot break thing will be minor so i will save that for later and will move on to the electrical. I need to:
1. verify the alternator/voltage regulator is working correctly.
2. replace all of the electrical mess.
3. i want to add lights and a solar battery charger.
4. get in to the blade pivot issue.

Im sure the list will grow.
BTW please remember the key photo and as soon as i figure out the photo posting process i will post photos of the seat relocation.
BTW thanks for all of your help.

[bulletpruf]

ok here is mine:
ok how do you insert photos on this site?
Anyway,
I have not moved it or run it too long, the real work on this 350 is going to be electrical, looks like they had a good mech go over the mech components but he was sloppy/un-educated as to electrical. The main electrical connector block has been overheated and falling apart. I will not be moving it or running the hydraulics until i sort it out. i will not band aid the electrical because it can lead to a lot of not working in the field in the worst positions.
I did find that the main pivot on the 6 way blade has a lot of play, i can push the top of the blade back 6" with my hands with it in the air. most likely i will have to pull the pin and re-bush it.
should i use bronze or steel for a bushing and what type of bronze or steel?
i have the hood off and i can say that the forestry exhaust guard is a pain, anyway the rest of the testing will have to wait until i have this in a better electrical state.
I checked the oil in the reverser and it is clean enough that i have a hard time telling what the level is on the dip stick. I will be surprised if the reverser has any issues. as far as i can tell this 350 was freshened up around 23 and not used much after that, it has a new starter, injector pump, hoses, oil in the reverser etc and they are not dirty so i know it was not used much after they were installed.
is there a good source for the electrical connector on these or is it a unicorn?

To post photos, you need to go to a site to host the images. I use postimages.org. It's free. Here's video on how to use it - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yjGKHVoLmp4

Are you talking about the pivot in the middle of the blade? One thing I was trying to figure out - is there supposed to be a zerk fitting there? Mine has a hole, but nothing is threaded into it.

[bulletpruf]

ok Bulletpruf, have it your way, i got to thinking about it and before i spend a lot of money on electrical rewiring, i should check out the other important (read expensive) sub assemblies. So with fire extinguisher at hand and the hood off so i could put out any fires that may pop up, i started it:
1. the blade works as intended.
2. the transmission works in all 4 gears / reverse (yea i am failure with the reverser and reverse transmission thing).
3 the reverser works as intended.
4.the steering clutches hold and release.
5. the steering brakes have authority with about 2" of free play in the levers.
6.the foot clutch works as intended.
7. the foot break works but either the return spring is out or it is rusted up because it would not release, i had to pull it up with my toe.

the foot break thing will be minor so i will save that for later and will move on to the electrical. I need to:
1. verify the alternator/voltage regulator is working correctly.
2. replace all of the electrical mess.
3. i want to add lights and a solar battery charger.
4. get in to the blade pivot issue.

Im sure the list will grow.
BTW please remember the key photo and as soon as i figure out the photo posting process i will post photos of the seat relocation.
BTW thanks for all of your help.

Well, sounds like you got an awesome deal on it, even with me jumping in with a bid at the last minute!

Does it grind at all going into gear? Mine does, but I hope a clutch adjustment will fix that.

On the foot brake, I'm wondering if it's the same spring that's on the clutch pedal. My spring on the clutch was broken (prior owner was using a bungee as a temporary fix) but I got a new one from JD for about $35.