450E transmission
450E transmission
I have a 1987 450E with the HLR transmission. The transmission after getting hot would stop pulling in low and some times on cold start the dozer would take a little long to start moving. Monday while doing some light work the clutch pressure plate came apart and now the transmission is not turning. I now have to remove the engine to replace the clutch, and would like to fix both of the other transmission concerns as well. The problem is that without the transmission turning I can't do any pressure test to isolate the causes of the other problems. I need suggestions on what to look for so that I may repair all of the transmission concerns.
Also can this transmission be repaired by pulling the engine and leaving the transmission in place or do I have to remove the transmission assembly as it is described in the Tech manual.
Thanks
Also can this transmission be repaired by pulling the engine and leaving the transmission in place or do I have to remove the transmission assembly as it is described in the Tech manual.
Thanks
When you got it apart do the directional and high-low packs a big favour and replace all friction plates check the steel plates with a flat edge for warp and replace with the slightest sign of warping check your inner piston seals and replace them Also do new shaft seals as well even if they look good replace them .This may cost some money for parts but these are the parts you would replace normaly and you are right there anyway then put it together and check your pressures with new oil and parts that 450E will give you many more years of service.Very seldom is it the transmission pump that is the chance of a problem at this point .As for the total dismantal of the unit I think you should be able to rebuild without taking it all apart I have had everything but a 450E apart to that point and the 450D would let you take out the clutch packs with out spliting .Digitup.
Thanks for the info. I've almost got the engine out and as soon as thats out of the way I'll open up the trans and go through the HLR clutch packs.
I've rebuilt many automotive automatic transmissions and if my interpretation of the tech manual is correct on this, it seems that these stack somewhat the same way. Thanks again for taking the time to help I'm sure before this is over I'll have a few more questions.
I've rebuilt many automotive automatic transmissions and if my interpretation of the tech manual is correct on this, it seems that these stack somewhat the same way. Thanks again for taking the time to help I'm sure before this is over I'll have a few more questions.
Today I got the transmission apart on the 450E. The engine clutch disc center was broken, the clutch oil pump was worn pretty bad and the adjuster was ran almost all the way down and badly worn out as well. The oil manifold was grooved were the sealing rings make contact and the transmission input shaft was badly worn. Supprisingly the clutch disc in the HLR assembly looked O.K. but they are getting replaced while I,m there. I ordered an engine clutch set, clutch oil pump and new linkage, reman oil manifold, clutch fiber disc, steel disc, piston seals,and steel sealing rings, for the HLR assembly, transmission input shaft, and new gasket and seals for the parts I've dissassembled.
Now just a few questions. First any suggestions as far as anything I may be missing while I'm in the trans, everthing else that I see gears, bearings, etc. look O.K.? Second How do I initally adjust the clutch, (engine) 4'' free play? Is this before the throwout bearing makes contact? How many turns down on the adjuster nut on the clutch oil pump to start with and what do I do as far as final adjustment here? The adjustment on the right side of the transmision where do I start with this and final adjustment on this as well? I have the tech manual but I'm having a litle trouble understanding these procedures.
Thanks in advance for the help.
Now just a few questions. First any suggestions as far as anything I may be missing while I'm in the trans, everthing else that I see gears, bearings, etc. look O.K.? Second How do I initally adjust the clutch, (engine) 4'' free play? Is this before the throwout bearing makes contact? How many turns down on the adjuster nut on the clutch oil pump to start with and what do I do as far as final adjustment here? The adjustment on the right side of the transmision where do I start with this and final adjustment on this as well? I have the tech manual but I'm having a litle trouble understanding these procedures.
Thanks in advance for the help.
Sounds like you are finding everything and not afraid to replace woren parts .Answering the first question you are doing fine just look all your internal parts over well #2 this setting is as you are just tuching the berring to fingers or surffice area #3these should be set fairly closebut refer to the old pump adjustment and pressure settings should be in the TEC manual .If you are not shure then revert to origional settings and adjust from there when running .Digitup.
405 E Transmission
I just got the dozer back together today after rebuilding the transmission. I replaced the engine clutch,transmission input shaft, transmission clutch oil pump and linkage, rebuilt the HLR assembly replacing all steel and friction disc, and all seals, replaced the oil manifold. Now all is back together and I have no pressure from the transmission oil pump. I removed the test plug and have no oil there as well as no oil flow to the cooler I tried pouring oil into the cooler lines thinking that the oil pump was possibly air locked and this made no difference. What did I do wrong I was very clean and tried to be careful. Any ideas were to go from here would be helpful.
450E transmission 2nd time around
I pulled the engine again yesterday then pulled the bellhousing and transmission oil pump. Upon inspection of the oil pump I found the gears set that I got from Deere to be somewhat thinner than the originals. The old gears measured 1.040 thick and the new set measure .875. This is enough difference to leave a gap in the pump and not allow it not to operate. This pump was from the local Deere dealer and was the only one listed for this application. I am now waiting on a call back from the Deere parts man as he was going to contact their tech support and see were we go from here. Lesson learned; always closely compare new parts to the ones removed and check for differences it would have saved me a lot of work and even more frustration.
Yes if the dealer cares they would be on top of that .And always keep the old parts till well after the machine is fixed .I had a parts counter mess up today as well .What a difference an extra 0 makes in the price of the part .They know better but they don't care even enough to call back and say we made a mistake .They called back to see when I was coming to get it ,Heck not at that price thanks . Digitup.
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