That latch on the footrest that locks the brake pedal is really annoying to try to reach to lift while you're standing on the brake at the same time. Yet it only takes a tiny bit of force to swing it back and forth. SO...
Brake released: (note the extra knob above the starter, starter knob has been replaced with a T-handle)

Brake set:

That ought to make things a little less dramatic when I need to get off the machine while it's on a steep incline. More importantly, it fills the hole in the instrument panel!
If you want to do this, you'll need to start with a cable roughly 6 feet long. In the below picture you can see how it's routed along the gas tank and down behind the hydraulic lines then between the hydraulic tank and the bracket that holds the valves.
You'll want to ziptie the cable to the wire harness about in the middle of the tank, to eliminate the chance of the cable being moved into contact with the battery post and shorting it.

On the other side of the hydraulic tank, fish the cable through the hole in the tank mounting bracket. Put a ziptie around the cable and bracket so the cable is held diagonally to clear the reverser lever, but don't make it super tight yet.

On the brake latch, measure 7/8" out from the center of rotation and drill a hole one size smaller than 1/8" (to avoid making the hole any bigger than necessary). I put the hole at 1" but the knob comes out a bit too far. Cut a 1/8" cotter pin to about 3/4" total length and put it in the hole with the ends bent flat on the other side with pliers. The cotter pin is necessary because the cable has to make a pivoting connection.
Make sure the cable sticks out of the sheath 3" or so. Bend the last 1/2" of the end 90 degrees, stick it through the cotter pin, and bend the last 1/4" another 90 degrees. Play with the bend of the cable and sheath and the position of the sheath until the latch flips back and forth through its full range of travel (while holding the brake pedal down). Then tighten up the ziptie.
