1010CA Rebuild Project Part VII, About to Round the Bend

[wwattson]

Got a couple hours in tonight and pulled the right side final drive to see how many fiber and steel disks I needed total. Pretty much all of them are worn to below minimum limit so that settles that. Still, I'm down to the last few pieces before it starts back the other way so I'm feeling encouraged.

This first picture is the removed right side final drive. Looks a ton better than the shipwreck version on the left side.



The inside of the steering clutch housing looks better too.



The crawler less the bottom plate and idlers groups. Starting to look pretty naked.



The view from the back. Take off the steering clutch housings, transmission, and track frames and it's pretty much done.



The right side track frame was repaired at some point. I'm going to need to redo this as it's not parallel to the other side and it looks like heck.



And finally, the wear on the track frames from the idlers brackets. All four contact point are pretty worn with this being the worse. I'm thinking weld buildup and grinding to restore to original contours but I'm looking for ideas. The other thought was to cut out the worn section and weld in a plate of correct thickness to restore the shape. Maybe someone with more crawler rebuild experience can offer a suggestion.

[bighamlin]

Thanks for the continous updates. You are realy making progress. I am interested to hear what more experienced ones have to say to your last question on cutting away the top side of the rail and welding in some flat bar. I have to deal with that also.
Paul

[Lavoy]

Only thing I would say about cutting and welding in a strip is not to use plain steel. The trackframes are not hardened, but they are a better grade of steel. If you could find some Grade 80 or similar, that would be a better bet than plain cold rolled.
Lavoy

[wwattson]

Thanks Lavoy,

I was thinking of using 4140 alloy steel because it's relatively tough, welds reasonably well, and can be hardened if need be. Have you ever repaired a track frame using this method?

[Lavoy]

Bill,
I have not as of yet, but would do so. So far the ones I have done have been minimal enough wear that they could be built up and ground smooth again. I think 4140 would be an excellent choice. I would not want it hardened though, you do not want the risk of it shattering, it will need some flexibility.
Lavoy

[wwattson]

Thanks again Lavoy. I measured it out this afternoon while I was organizing my parts piles and have a pretty good idea how to go about it. We got hammered with snow this weekend so I've been on the tractor plowing for two days straight. Hopefully I can get a little more time on it tonight. I'm going to try to get the two steering clutch housings pulled tonight at the least.