Lavoy Question

[Pammark]

I did a search on clutch removal and got this response from you back in March to another member.

Posted: Tue Mar 23, 2010 8:23 am Post subject:
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You can pull the clutch on a 2010 without pulling the final. In a nutshell, you pull the sprocket, pinion shaft, drive shaft, and some other assorted pieces, and lift the clutch pack out the top.
Lavoy


I have the forum going under 2010 repair. The question; Is it better to pull the finals on the 2010 then pull the steering clutches, or should I pull the clutch housings with the finals intact away from the middle casting (bull gear and drive shafts)? If I have to remove the clutch housing anyway, why not do it as a finals unit.

Mark

[Lavoy]

I have only torn one down for parts, so don't have any go back together experience to tell you. If you plan on keeping the crawler long term, I guess I would be inclined to tear the finals completely apart and check bearings, seals, etc. I don't think there is any need/gain to pulling the clutch housing off of the trans. There are some 2010 guys on here that can tell you better than I can.
Lavoy

[Pammark]

I studied the situation tonight and I see I will have to pull the finals anyway. There is the mount bracket on the bottom pipe structure that will be in the way. Plus, one of the clutch housing bolts into the bull gear/pinion area is a stud. That means I will have to pull the housing out that far to free clear.

I opened the bullgear area top lid and looked in. Very nice looking oil and little wear on the gear teeth. I really think this unit has little hours on it. The finals do not have any oil leaks and if there is little slop in the gears, I'll probably let them alone.

I did remove the water pump and the impeller looks good. I see the comment of pressing the bearing in. It looks like it is very easy to break a casting. Sounds like a rebuild to me.

I also took the hood off the engine. I could not get the muffler off the exhaust without destroying something, so I just unbolted the whole exhaust manifold from the block and let it hang through the hood. I can sand and paint around it.

I am confused about the right steering clutch that does not work. It looks like two things happened. The owner stored the dozer for some time with the steering arms pulled back and the pressureplate rusted in the open position. The disks rusted enough to stick too. As a result, the steering lever never touches the throw-out bearing, yet the clutch is tight.

Mark

[Tigerhaze]

Hi Mark-

That is a very informative post. I had always heard that the finals generally had to be removed to replace the steering clutches on a 2010, and your post explains why that is.

I also found the part about the pressure plate interesting because I have been tying back the steering levers when in storage- however I also cover the crawler and try to use it on a periodic basis.

[Pammark]

Lavoy

I will report my findings when I get the clutch out.

I found an old post from a guy that says the finals do not need to be removed. He said to remove the three-bolt cap on the finals that cover the pinion gear. Loosen the set-screw in the clutch housing and pull the pinion out with a gear puller (he used a slide-hammer). I guess there is a threaded hole in the end of the pinion to grab on. My exploded drawing shows a C-clip around the spline inside the clutch housing. Either pulling the pinion will also pull the seal and bearing out too, or one can possibly knock the clip off through the peephole. I will try it.

I am not sure what the C-clip is doing. Where will the pinion go?



Mark

[Lavoy]

The pinion pulls straight out. You have to have the sprocket off, you probably knew that already. The clutch will definitely come out with the final on, I have done it on a parts machine, just too long ago to remember much of it.
Lavoy