injector pump problem

c.lane · Post by **c.lane** » Thu Aug 30, 2012 8:25 am

My 1010 diesel crawler woudn't start this spring. I cracked the lines and got no fuel at the injectors. I checked for fuel to the pump and an open return line...both OK. Based on the messageboard, I assumed the plastic retainer ring would be bad, but there was no debris in the fuel flowing out under the timing cover.

I ordered a repair kit from US Diesel and a pump repair manual and rebuilt the pump. When disassembled the plastic retainer ring was cracked but intact. I installed the new parts from the kit. The transfer pump blades were within specifications, but just barely. During assembly the sleeve with the weights came out of position when I inverted the pump, but I was able to get it back into position through the drive end. I made no changes to the advance settings. The weights on the governor were quite a bit stiffer with the new plastic retainer. I don't own a 2" micrometer so I set the roller to roller distance with a dial guage.

After putting everything back together the dozer wouldn't start. (During any attempts to start the fuel tank was full and cranking speed was adequate.) I waited a couple of weeks and lo and behold it started and ran great at idle, but had no power. If I advance the throttle quite a bit (more than normal), it would push dirt,, but it didn't used to need the throttle advanced so high to operate well.

I decided to make sure I had good fuel supply at the pump so I took off the hood and checked the tank vent and all the lines, strainers, valves and filters. Now I'm back to the "won't start" part of the story...I have fuel at the injectors. It cranks fast enough and tries to start, but just won't quite do it. I expect if I wait another too weeks it will start, but have no power like before.

I'd appreciate any sage advise. I'm suspicious of that roller to roller measurement, but I won't be taking that pump apart unless I get some confirmations from experience forum members. Thanks.

gregjo1948 · Post by **gregjo1948** » Fri Aug 31, 2012 6:13 am

You may need to borrow a microm. to set it exactly. I think it should be within .0005". Make sure that your dots are matching on the drive shaft when you install the pump and be sure you're on TDC ,#1 cylinder, on the correct stroke. Greg

Tigerhaze · Post by **Tigerhaze** » Fri Aug 31, 2012 9:37 am

I will caveat this first by saying that these suggestions are not likely the cause of the "low power" issue but may be the starting issue.

I'm guessing the engine compression is somewhat low and when coupled with the following issues make it difficult to start:

-Faulty glow plugs (almost a necessity on 1010s and 2010s)
-Missing primer pump (priming pump greatly aids in starting)
-Worn starter (slower revolutions make starting difficult-even when it sounds "adequate" I have found that a fresh starter makes a bunch of difference)

If you haven't tried those things, give that a shot first and maybe it will solve the hard starting issue.

Jdemaris (our resident Stanadyne expert) or others will have to weigh in on your other questions about the pump rebuild.

If you search the archives on here (or look at the thread I just replied to about 2010 starting) you can find some of the relevant posts. Here is one helpful one in particular:

http://www.jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/ ... 10+priming

c.lane · Post by **c.lane** » Fri Aug 31, 2012 8:03 pm

gregjo1948 wrote:You may need to borrow a microm. to set it exactly. I think it should be within .0005". Make sure that your dots are matching on the drive shaft when you install the pump and be sure you're on TDC ,#1 cylinder, on the correct stroke. Greg

Dots are OK for sure. I set TDC by the flywheel timing mark. Is there a wrong way to do that? Thanks.

c.lane · Post by **c.lane** » Fri Aug 31, 2012 8:06 pm

c.lane wrote:
gregjo1948 wrote:You may need to borrow a microm. to set it exactly. I think it should be within .0005". Make sure that your dots are matching on the drive shaft when you install the pump and be sure you're on TDC ,#1 cylinder, on the correct stroke. Greg
Dots are OK for sure. I set TDC by the flywheel timing mark. Is there a wrong way to do that? Thanks.

Cranking speed is great. Primer is working enough to get black smoke. It's the "continue running" that is my problem.

gregjo1948 · Post by **gregjo1948** » Sat Sep 01, 2012 5:45 am

I think you can be on the flywheel mark and be 180 out. To be sure that your on the right stroke, you can pull the #1 injector--put your finger over the hole and crank to feel the compression stroke-- then see if your mark is correct. Greg

gregjo1948 · Post by **gregjo1948** » Sat Sep 01, 2012 5:49 am

I forgot-- When you feel compession stroke beginning, stop cranking and bar the engine over so you don't go past TDC. Greg

c.lane · Post by **c.lane** » Sat Sep 01, 2012 10:31 am

gregjo1948 wrote:I forgot-- When you feel compession stroke beginning, stop cranking and bar the engine over so you don't go past TDC. Greg

Latest update. The old dozer started, just as I expected with the same symptoms: slow to accelerate with advance in the throttle and the need to run with the throttle a lot higher than normal to get much power. the glow plugs are all drawing the proper current, as a side note. It took about 10 attempts to start after I checked the fuel lines and filters which I attribute to being slow to bleed the pump. Appreciate the continued advise!

gregjo1948 · Post by **gregjo1948** » Sun Sep 02, 2012 6:44 am

If you're sure on your timing,is your govenor working? Greg

c.lane · Post by **c.lane** » Mon Sep 03, 2012 5:51 am

gregjo1948 wrote:If you're sure on your timing,is your govenor working? Greg

That's a good question and the reason I posted the information about the governor weights falling out of position and the fact that the new plastic ring made movement of the weights much more restricted. I'm wondering if with this "lack of power" except with the throttle advanced much more might just be the "new normal" with the rebuilt pump. Would like someone with the same experience to confirm though. Thanks.

gregjo1948 · Post by **gregjo1948** » Mon Sep 03, 2012 7:22 am

I had the same problem and, if I remember correctly, it was all in the timing. Be sure you're on the correct stroke at TDC first. Then recheck the dots on the drive shaft. Mine was so far out, I didn't think it should even run. Idled nice and pulled higher rpms ok but, it reved up slowly and had no power. Also started extra hard even for a 1010. I don't think any of them start as easy as most. Greg

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