General help and support for your Lindeman through 2010 John Deere crawler
-
BKahler
- 440 crawler

- Posts: 175
- Joined: Mon Apr 04, 2005 9:38 pm
- Location: Richmond, Kentucky
-
Contact:
Post
by BKahler » Mon May 15, 2006 9:26 pm
Ok, we've got the engine block down to just the liners remaining in it. We've tried rigging up a slide hammer as shown in the pictures of the service manual but haven't had any luck getting them out that way. We've soaked with rust penatrant and hammered away, still nothing.
I've heard that you can run a welding bead down the center of the liner and it will shrink after cooling to the point you can pull it out. At least I know people do that on the ford tractors. Will this work on a Detroit Diesel? Hate to ruin the engine block by doing some thing stupid
Thanks,
Brad
-
Lavoy
- Site Admin

- Posts: 11108
- Joined: Sun Apr 03, 2005 8:32 pm
- Location: North Dakota
-
Contact:
Post
by Lavoy » Mon May 15, 2006 10:06 pm
That shouldn't hurt the block as long as you don't burn through the liner. I have never worked on a 2-53, but have you tried a sleeve puller? Another wild idea, but I moved a dry sleeve this way, fill the bore with ice, and heat around it with a torch. I know you don't have another surface to heat on like I did, but can you heat around the bottom of the block where the sleeve goes through? If there is a section in the center of the sleeve where you know there is no casting on the other side, can you cut it in two with a die grinder or cutoff tool and remove the upper half first?
Have you tried alchohol? You know, the kind that comes in a bottle marked "PROOF". I have found that copious amounts of the aforementioned liquid, and BFH can work wonders. You may still wreck something, but if the bottle is big enough, it will seem funny until the next day.
Lavoy
-
lastchancegarage
- 440 crawler

- Posts: 138
- Joined: Mon Jan 09, 2006 7:24 am
- Location: Ct.
Post
by lastchancegarage » Tue May 16, 2006 5:54 am
Brad,
I replied to your post on the other forum and then read where you're at on this one. Disregard my slide hammer reference in that post, you're obviously past that point. In looking at the manual you sent me, I'm wondering how much of the cylinder is extended into the bottom of the block. Looking at the cutaway of the block it looks like the sleeve should extend into the lower block cavity an inch or so. Would it be possible to get a piece of round stock (brass maybe) on the bottom of the sleeve and sledgehammer it up? There was this aerosol can my instructor at school would use on the thermostat which was like freon. I'm not sure what it was but whatever you sprayed frosted over quick. If you were to heat the block up and had the round stock in place on the bottom end(once again, probably a two man operation) someone could spray the inside of the liner down while the other used the sledge on the other end to break the liner free. Once loosened, the slide hammer could probably finish it up. More elaborate would be to bolt a plate so as to get a bottle jack on the bottom with the round stock as an anvil to push the liner out. Good luck.
Scott
Keep the tracks down and the torque up!!
1959 JD 440 ICD dozer
1959 Case 310B backhoe w/belly grader option
195? ATC GT-25 dozer
19?? Stow 1 ton roller w/rare cooler option!