Front Idler Brackets on 440

[jac]

Starting to rebuild my tracks and noticed the front idler brackets are loose on the frames (both sides). There is a significant gap (1/4") between the guides (part number T 16670T) and the frame. Looking at the parts manual I see there are 0.010" shims that go between the guide and the idler bracket, so the gap setting appears to be important.

How tight should this assembly be on the frames?

Also, any simple suggestion as to how to get the track roller bracket bolts out without breaking them off? So far, it is not going well since I broke the first two off. Everytng is pretty rusted and am not soaking everything in penetrating oil.

[Lavoy]

Brackets should be fairly tight, look at the trackframe, and I think you will see where the wear is at.
Best bet on bolts is to heat them.
Lavoy

[jac]

Lavoy:

Thanks. I will check the frames. If worn, can I just build them back up with a welder?

[Lavoy]

That's what I do, or cut and weld in a new piece.
Lavoy

[jac]

Welded up the top and underside of the track frame. Not too bad with a MIG. Installed the front idler and still about a 1/4" of play (I can lift up the idler wheel that much). The idler brackets that ride on the top of the rail look pretty good but the guides (which ride on the underside of the rail) look worn since they are tapered. Should these be welded up so they are not tapered? Cast iron or cast steel?

I assume this should have a slight gap (set with the shims) to allow for track adjustment but not too much play.

[Lavoy]

The guides are cast steel, easy to weld and grind to shape. Make sure there is enough gap that the brackets do not bind.
Lavoy

[jac]

Lavoy:

Thanks. Can I assume all the taper in the guide face is wear and they should be built up so the guide face is parallel to the frame? If so, I will simply build them back up and machine it flat on my Bridgeport. Should be simple.

I will insure them can slide on the rails after installed.

[Lavoy]

Not completely flat, but close.
Lavoy

[jac]

Lavoy: Thanks for the information. Do you know how thick they should be out towards the end? That will give me an estimate on the taper.

[Lavoy]

No, I guess I don't. Look at the C-channel, and make sure that the inside edge does not rub on the curve of the channel.
Lavoy

[jac]

Lavoy:

Thanks. I also just noticed that the idler brackets are also worn since based on pictures in the service manual, they appear to be flat and mine have a groove worn in them from the rails. More welding, but looks like I better take the seals out first. No wonder this was so loose.