JDcrawlers Messageboard

Thanks Lavoy, but I think my improvised joint should be OK, especially for the life this crawler will have post-resto

Got the radiator back on. Still the original one (I believe ...), but I had my local radiator shop work their magic on it. There were signs of it leaking in the past, and the shop found some pinholes in the header tank that were brazed closed. The core seemed OK, according to their leak test. If I u...

It's been a little while .... I had intentions of continuing some work over the Michigan winter, but that didn't happen. I took on a big project to insulate my barn/workshop, which involved the first real, proper tidy up in 25 years. You know those shelves where you just keep piling up more stuff? A...

From my own 1010 experience, a couple of things, if I'm not too late to reply: 1. Check that the track frames are perpendicular to the crawler frame. Stand behind the machine, look at the angle of the frames, the sprockets & idlers. On my 1010, there's about a 4 deg angle. You can see it, when you l...

What issue did you have with the reverser?

I would suggest you look in every assembly. It's easier now than if it's together and fails. I know what you are saying. In hindsight, I should have taken a deeper dive into the transmission. But everything is painted now. I may regret, but hopefully not! I really wish this machine had an original ...

The fun continues. I knew there was trouble with the left side final drive already - saw the small pieces of clutch plate when I removed it. Half of the friction plates had the ears that engage with the input shaft sheared off. The brake drum had a big wobble. End play for the final drive shaft meas...

Got a coat of primer on my next batch of parts - which included the hydraulic pump - only to spot fluid seeping around the pump body. I knew it had been leaking, but thought it was the shaft seal. Tore it down, only to find a disaster inside. Heavy scoring of the body, well past the wear limits for ...

Look on the right side of the reverser case, just inside the frame rail. There's an external filter housing cover that is 1 long piece pre-42000. 3 bolts at the top, 4 at the bottom. The whole piece is about 12" high, 4 inches wide. After 42000, the oil passageway was moved to be internal, and you'l...

Where do people run the starter to battery cable on 1010's? What was the original factory run? On mine, it sat on top of the floor panels, which obviously isn't right. There are no existing clips to hold it to the frame rail, and obviously it needs to stay out of the way of the pedal, brake linkage,...

1st round of painting done! I used Deere paint, even though I'm not a big fan of spraying alkyd enamels. Interestingly, the recommended "Deere Paint Thinner" is no longer available, at least in Michigan. Replaced by a low-VOC version, which is just acetone. But Chat GBT came to the rescue, and sugge...

Big milestone today! 2 coats of epoxy primer on the main chassis & frame rails. Took longer than I wanted to source the clutch housing, replacing a cracked one. Would have been nice to have painted with the final drives already assembled, but too much work to do on them still, and didn't want to mis...

It started simple enough. My son came home at Christmas, and said "Dad, you need a dozer". Obviously, I answered "I do?" And the chain reaction started.... He had found a very cute Deere machine. I have restored a couple of old tractors, but this crawler stuff is a bit new to me. I thought it was de...

I found this resource a while back - more info than you'll ever need!

https://www.delcoremyhistory.com/index.htm

https://www.delcoremyhistory.com/trainingmanuals.htm

I had the same problem - no tags. The best I could do was narrow down the serial number range by some of the design differences. For example, shifter moved from dash to floor at s/n 21900, Hydraulic control levers moved to a box on RH Fender at 31000 & Reverser oil filter cover plate changed from 1 ...