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Not mine and not pretty, but as Bob Barker used to say.

Here’s a sealing ring #30 in the accumulator. Would that be the steal ring you’re speaking of?

Thanks

Thanks for the reply…really good info. So the oil tube that connects the valve body and the manifold is what I broke. I’ll have to figure that out. We really don’t have any good bones yards around here for these dozers. Sounds like a reverser rebuild is in order…I’m not sure what the steel sealing r...

Yeah, that’s a good read and good advice. Stan and the guys would know, but I never knew there was a difference…learn something new everyday.

My grease gun is whatever Auto Zone had 20 years ago. IMO there’s nothing special needed to grease a 350. I bought a button head adapter from Amazon and grab it whenever I need it without needing multiple guns to grease all my things. $17…works great for me. https://i.postimg.cc/9XYtXbYW/B805AA15-10...

Thanks for the reply. I’ve already disassembled back to the transmission and repaired the plugs as you mentioned…I had a little problem with one of them on the repair so I’m gonna try to never unthread from the valve again by installing a short piece of pipe. We’ll see if I have enough clearance to ...

I’ve got a 350c that spins the tracks in 1st gear but won’t move more than 3 feet when placed into 2nd gear. The crawler moves better in 3rd & 4th but has no pushing power. I have the same results in forward or reverse. What’s your thoughts on where the problem is? I’m no expert with the wet clutch ...

Can’t ask for better than that…clutches and breaks may be good. Definitely dodged a bullet.

Filters, fuel, and fluids is where I would go. Something will pop up that will need attention, but it sounds like the major stuff is worth the purchase.

Bummer on the tire, we’ve all been there.

The repair work will be rebuilding the steering clutches & break bands. Also, any seals or bearings that may have rusted or dried up over the years of setting around.

I would recommend you call Lavoy for some manuals and parts. 701-361-1006

Probably either a return line leaking, a supply line leaking, or and injector leaking. All are an easy fix. Take the hood off and look for wet places above the manifold. That will likely narrow the area for you. Start the engine and watch for active leaks. Since you say it runs great my bet would be...

Sounds like you wanted it. So yeah I would say you should have bid more. Probably could have had a decent dozer for around $7000 by the time you got it going. Transportation, maintenance, and some repair work would have been in order in the final drives. The undercarriage looks great on that unit. I...

Both the test port plugs, on the reverser, are stripped out. Not the threads but the hex drive. I did the best I could with some extraction tools, but it’s a no go. I would usually weld a head on there or drill and tap new threads. What’s the pros and cons? Also any other suggestions on getting them...

Run a wire directly from the injection pump to the battery. There should be some type of wire(s) already connected to the injection pump, unhook those and ensure you have a single wire to the positive battery stud. This method bypasses the key switch or button…or both in terms of the pump being read...

Just an update if anyone else does this repair. AT36097 is the correct seal for basically all of the 350 crawlers The fuel tank and either or both battery box and hydraulic reservoir will need to be removed. This is due to the clutch housing plates, which are partially located underneath these parts...

Thanks for the bad news fellas… :lol: I did notice two 9/16 bolt heads where the cap would be. I wonder if those bolts hold the housing or “pocket” somehow and maybe that entire apparatus comes out together. Without seeing the pictures in the TM I’m just guessing and I wouldn’t think the drive splin...